Snuba in Puerto Rico

By Meghan McCloskey

“There are only three things you need to remember about Snuba,” said the bronzen instructor, “Breathe, never take off your oxygen mask and don’t swim off like a mermaid.” 

Easy enough, I think, considering one of the three rules is an instinct. ‘Snuba’ is not a typo, it’s one of the fastest growing aquatic activities that combines the best of snorkeling and scuba diving and allows you to explore coral reefs in the depths of the tropical seas without getting scuba diving certified. 

I jump, flippers first, off the back of the boat into the warm waters off the coast of Guánica, Puerto Rico.  Before I know it I’m fifteen feet underwater immersed in a delicate coral reef, face to face with iridescent fish in their natural habitat.  The only underwater communication I’ll be using is the ‘ok sign,’ which is Snuba for “this is awesome!”

Puerto Rico offers plenty of adrenaline inducing activities without the headache of complicated travel arrangements.  For families with a mix of daredevils and sunbathers, you can’t go wrong with this destination.  You don’t even need a passport to enter Puerto Rico, which is approximately a 4-hour flight from New York.  Despite its convenience, when you land in Puerto Rico and you stare out at the banana groves and the cerulean blue waters, you will feel as though your stresses are a world away.  

My destination is Copamarina Beach Resort in the small town of Guánica, a place where locals take pride in their land and go to great lengths to preserve the natural areas. Guánica is home to the largest dry forest in the world, a water-deprived ecosystem where the trees and cactus only grow one to five feet, yet sometimes to the age of 700 years.  Besides biologists from around the world, the free park attracts mountain bikers who could start at the top of the cliffside forest and bike down to Compamarina Resort to relax by the pool. Jose Luis at the information hut will point you towards a trail to meet your interests, whether it is a stroll to breathe in the fragrant fresh air or a quest to spot the rare Puerto Rican Whip-poor-will.

Copamarina hosts one of the best water sport centers for families on the island because there are options for all ages and skill levels.  There are opportunities for scuba diving, kayaking, paddle boarding and even HobiCat sailcraft.  Little ones can team up with parents and older siblings on a three-person kayak to embark on a trip to the forested Gilligan’s Island and even have a picnic on with white sandy beaches.  Not up for the challenge? Put up your feet and take in the views of Guanica at sunset from off shore aboard a pontoon boat.

I try my hand at paddleboarding, an ancient Hawaiian version of surfing, where the audacious rider balances on two feet on top of a surfboard and propels through the water with a giant oar.  Unfortunately, Poseidon is against me on the uncommonly windy day and the waves forbid me from reaching Gilligan’s Island.  I resign to shore, but an aromatherapy massage awaits me at the Bodyderm Spa of Copamarina.  As traditional Puerto Rican music soothes me, I treat my deserving muscles, feeling surprisingly accomplished for a vacation day.

Most visitors to Copamarina opt for the all-inclusive package, a real steal and the only package of its type on the island.  Parents will love daytime dining at the al fresco café, Las Palmas where you can try Puerto Rican fusion like mofongo (root vegetable-based dish) stuffed with grouper while kids can munch on comfort foods. Steal away for an evening and dine at the elegant Alexandra Restaurant, which offers innovative cuisine while being serenaded by the violin of a local music professor.  The filet mignon is a must-try!

If you want one more taste of Puerto Rico before heading home, stay at Courtyard Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort, found on a slice of pristine beach conveniently located a half a mile from the San Juan airport.  The energetic ones in the group can rent a boogie board or surfboard to tackle the waves.  Want to rest up before heading back to the real world?  No problem, you can recline on a spacious hammock and gaze out at the beach or hedge your bets at the in-house casino.

I head back to the airport, adrenaline still piping through me.  It’s a good thing that Puerto Rico is so accessible because I’ll be back soon for more adventure!

Universal Orlando's new Superstar Parade attraction opened May 8

More than a dozen ferocious Nile alligators loll on the riverbank below the bridge where I’m standing. 

I should be terrified but I’m not. Maybe that’s because I’m at Walt Disney World’s Animal Kingdom experiencing Wild Animal Trek, one of Disney’s roster of special VIP experiences.

Who doesn’t want to be treated like a VIP on vacation? We all do, of course, cutting lines, getting pampered, seeing what most tourists don’t. Orlando  offers plenty of VIP options for the entire family—assuming you’re willing to pay extra for the privilege, of course.

Join us to talk everything Orlando at a #TMOM Twitter Party  5/14, 9pET. Great prizes too!

Wild Animal Trek, for example, takes “adventurers,” just a dozen at a time, accompanied by two well-seasoned guides, on a bush walk and truck ride through the most remote areas of Disney’s Animal Kingdom. On our outing, a mama and baby rhino walked right in front of our truck and we saw a lion and lioness snoozing on a hilltop, not to mention the elephants, giraffes, antelopes, ostriches, gazelles, cheetahs, flamingos … Having been on safari in Africa, I really do feel I’m back there — or at least somewhere other than an Orlando theme park. That’s the idea, of course.

The price for the Africa Trek is nearly $200 –but a lot less than going to Africa!  And I like all the extras. Besides your trek, you receive a CD of photos, including plenty of the animals, your bush meal and a donation to support the threatened animal of your choice. 

Here are some other options::  

– Share a spa experience with your little princess—everything from facials at the Nickelodeon Family Suites to spa experiences for preschoolers at The Spa at Disney’s Saratoga Springs Resort   to special teen treatments and parent-teen massages at the Mandara Spa at Universal Orlando’s Portofino Bay Hotel and at Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin.

–  Head  to  SeaWorld’s Discovery Cove where admission  is limited to 1,000 guests a day and includes a dolphin-swim interaction, the chance to hand-feed hundreds of tiny birds and for an extra-fee the chance to take an underwater walking tour wearing dive helmets for up-close encounters with rays and schools of tropical fish.  There is also trainer for a day programs. You can also sign up for an immersive animal connection experience at SeaWorld Orlando   where you can see where the injured sea animals are treated. Get up close with penguins, sea lions or dolphins.  Look for other exclusive experiences –even being a trainer for a day.

— Take a VIP Tour at Universal Orlando Resort and let your guide give you the 411 on all the attractions. Front-of-the-line access is also included. Did we mention the complimentary valet parking, the effortless character interaction (no waiting in long lines) and the discounts on souvenirs? (Check here for prices.)  If you stay at one of the three Universal Orlando hotels, your room card guarantees you front of the line access to most of the attractions.

 — Have lunch with an astronaut ($24.99 for adults; $15.99 for kids 3-11) at the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex (www.kennedyspacecnter.com).

— Get slimed  like a celebrity  at The Nickelodeon Suites Resort 

— Walt Disney World offers VIP Tours  which will enable you to hit the major attractions at all of the parks in one day with a guide who has a magic pass that enables you to head to the front of the line or go in the back entrances.  There are a variety of other special options from  going on a scavenger hunt through the Magic Kingdom on Disney’s Family Magic Tour  to a unique Richard Petty Speedway Challenge  to the chance to be transformed into a princess at the Bibbidi Bobbidi Boutique  or a pirate.  Take your little princess to the Perfectly Princess Tea at the Grand Floridian Resort) where she’ll get princess lessons from resident Princess Aurora and a special princess doll.  

Orlando, after all, is the place to make dreams come true—yours as well as the kids.

TurtleTrek the 3D movie at Seaworld Orlando

By Eileen Ogintz
Tribune Media Services

I can’t stop thinking about Grandma.

She’s only in her 20s, and not really a grandma; she got the name because she was unfortunate enough to lose her teeth.

Oh, did I mention that Grandma is a sea turtle that lost her entire lower jaw when someone cut it off to retrieve a fish hook?

Horrible, I know, but Grandma is pretty lucky all things considered. She was rescued four years ago and nursed back to health and now lives at SeaWorld Orlando where sea turtles are the showcase of the newly opened TurtleTrek, a one-of-a-kind attraction designed to share the sea turtle’s journey from hatching on the beach, racing to open waters, facing hazards — like unscrupulous fishermen and boaters — and then, if they’re lucky, returning to the same beach to lay their eggs. There’s also a call to action. (If you stop using plastic bags — as SeaWorld plans to do in the next year — that will keep many animals from being impacted by plastic that ends up in the ocean.)

In the nearly 50 years since SeaWorld’s rescue programs began, more than 20,000 injured, orphaned and sick animals — whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, manatees, sea turtles and birds — have been rescued, cared for, and in most cases, returned to the wild.

Now, just as SeaWorld brought attention to the plight of the manatee — and you will see rescued manatees here as well — the park now showcases the vulnerable sea turtles like Grandma in the brand-new TurtleTrek exhibit. Besides actually seeing these amazing creatures in person, you can see a 3-D/360-degree film (even projected overhead) that features a sea turtle (the hero, of course) and thousands of fish. This six-minute movie is so hi-definition it would take you nearly three months to download it at home.

In addition, more than 1,500 fish native to the Caribbean live in the saltwater habitat and approximately 200 freshwater fish join the manatees in theirs.

TurtleTrek is home to adult and juvenile sea turtles, including hawksbill, Kemp’s Ridley, loggerhead and green sea turtles — all of whom, like Grandma, have been deemed nonreleasable by the Florida government.

The aim, of course, is to release as many as possible. Since 1980, SeaWorld Orlando has returned more than 1,200 sea turtles back to their natural waters. SeaWorld’s animal rescue team, in fact, is on call 24/7. (Check out www.seaworldcares.com/conservation. To find out more about marine animals, visit www.seaworld.org.)

Recently, I got a peek at SeaWorld’s extensive rehabilitation area that is as well equipped as many hospitals, offering operating rooms, X-ray machines, a pharmacy and experts who consult on animal care with veterinarians and human doctors around the world. Imagine giving a 3,600-pound manatee stitches or setting a tiny frog’s broken leg! (You can sign on for such a behind-the-scenes tour ($30 for adults, $10 for kids 3 to 10) as well as other special experiences to get closer to these creatures, including interacting with a Beluga whale or a dolphin, being a marine mammal keeper for a day, as long as your kids are 12, and VIP tours that enable you to cut the lines. For more details, log onto http://seaworldparks.com/en/seaworld-orlando/attractions/exclusive-park-experiences.

You also have the chance to swim with a dolphin, snorkel with sting rays and tropical fish and feed exotic birds at SeaWorld’s sister park Discovery Cove where Freshwater Oasis is just opening, giving you a chance to wade and float and discover marmosets and Asian otters along the way. This place is all inclusive and only allows 1,000 guests a day — no worries about lines here — so reservations are a must. (Prices start at $199 a person and include the dolphin swim, food and drinks and unlimited admission to either SeaWorld or SeaWorld’s water park Aquatica or Busch Gardens Tampa Bay for two weeks — not a bad deal since SeaWorld daily admission alone is $81.99 for adults.)

I even had the chance (for an extra $59) to take an underwater walking tour — wearing a dive helmet to get up close to nurse sharks, baby rays, octopus and schools of tropical fish — a lot more than you likely will see snorkeling or diving. “You don’t even have to try to look for them, they’re all right there,” said Constance Critchlow, visiting from London.

All of Orlando’s parks offer new attractions this spring and summer, like SeaVenture and TurtleTrek. (For details, see my blog about Orlando.) If you are considering a trip, come in May or June before the parks get too crowded and the weather too hot. You might snare a better hotel deal too, with rooms under $100 a night. (Visit www.visitorlando.com for the latest deals.)

Families visiting SeaWorld, meanwhile — and yes, Shamu is still a top attraction — get that this is more than a place for rides, though there is Manta, the flying roller coaster, the first of its kind, Kraken, Orlando’s only floorless coaster, the water-coaster Journey to Atlantis and, for younger children, the popular Shamu’s Happy Harbor.

“So much better than just rides,” offered Erin Hollenbacker, here with her sons from Ohio for their first visit to SeaWorld. “This is completely different and all of the animals really capture their attention.”

“It’s been very educational,” added Sheila Burnett, here from Illinois with her granddaughters.

Education, of course, is as big a part of SeaWorld’s mission as is conservation. The entertainment — whether it’s One Ocean, SeaWorld’s killer whale show, “Clyde and Seamore Take Pirate Island,” which showcases sea lions, otters and walrus or the chance to visit the Dolphin Nursery — is all designed to nurture interest in marine life and how we can protect it.

Park officials like to remind visitors that just by coming, guests are helping to rescue and protect animals all over the world, since SeaWorld and Busch Gardens have contributed $50 million to conservation, wildlife rescue and environmental programs.

“You have to keep your eyes on the dolphins,” advised 10-year-old Morgan Jones from Chicago. “They are really funny! I like SeaWorld best of all the parks.”

Who says learning can’t be fun — even on vacation!

© 2012 EILEEN OGINTZ, DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.

Eileen and Reggie pause in the redwood grove

By Eileen Ogintz
Tribune Media Services

We’re walking past groves of soaring redwood “families,” some with their innards carved out as the result of forest fires.

But we’re not in a crowded national park. In fact, we’ve pretty much got the hiking trail to ourselves in Butano State Park in the Santa Cruz Mountains, midway between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay and only a little more than an hour from San Francisco. Butano State Park — one of the least known of the California parks — is home to a spectacular redwood/Douglas fir forest.

During our five-mile hike, we see plump yellow banana slugs, the tiny Calypso orchid and blooming trillium, a member of the lily family. But the best part is the conversations with my daughter, Reg, who lives across the country from us in San Francisco. I’d forgotten how conducive hiking is to catching up!

We’re spending the weekend here in Half Moon Bay with Reg, who works near here, and her boyfriend Dan Foldes, and I can’t think of a better respite from city living — a spectacular coast and beaches (great tide-pooling), the chance to hike through the redwoods, visit farms (ogle the baby goats) and restaurants that have been at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement.

Asparagus is in season and it’s served to us — gently fried in a light batter at Pasta Moon in Half Moon Bay, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary. From the beginning, these restaurants have been known for serving what is in season from local farmers. You can point out veggies to the kids in the fields and farmer’s markets and then bring them here to eat them.

There are farms that date back to the 1800s (come in fall for the big pumpkin festival), miles of white sand beaches (here’s the place to horseback ride along the beach), redwood forests and hiking and biking trails along the bluffs and among the mountains. There’s kayaking, fishing and even the chance to see how cheese is made. And, of course, the chance to sample plenty of farm-to-table good eats.

This area, we learn, is home California’s first and only broad-based ecotourism visitor program, through which more than 30 farmers, fishermen and community business members have come together to offer visitors hands-on activities and a chance to meet local residents. In order to be included in the Ecotourism Map, all businesses had to agree to follow certain environmental standards. You have your choice of options where to stay — even Pigeon Point Lighthouse, one of the tallest and most photographed lighthouses in the country, is now a hostel!)

We opt to pamper ourselves — along with other families, we meet — at the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, one of the most spectacular hotel locations I’ve ever seen. The hotel is high on scenic bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean with two golf courses, tennis courts, walking trails to the beach and outdoor fire pits. (They leave us s’mores kits in our room.) Some rooms have their own private fire pits where guests can sit and take in the ocean.)

San Franciscans make the drive just for the fantastic Sunday brunch, (which will be especially busy Mother’s Day). It offers more than 300 items, much of which, according to Executive Chef Xavier Salomon, comes from a dozen local farms and purveyors. And not a chicken finger in sight. Chef Salomon says he doesn’t do “kids’ food” at the brunch and parents rarely ask for it — not when kids can eat delectable dim sum and sushi, mashed potatoes, roast beef, veggies in season and mini quiches. “And, of course, they go crazy for the desserts,” Salomon says with a smile. (There are Nutella crepes, apple, blackberry and peach marshmallows, chocolate mousse, flan, tiny tarts, fresh berries and cream and miniature cakes too pretty to eat. Chocolate raspberry dome, anyone?)

Good thing there are so many hiking options to walk off brunch! But with four regions to explore around Half Moon Bay — the North Coast, Half Moon Bay, the South Coast and the Redwood Region — we can’t fit it all in one weekend. We simply follow my daughter’s lead to some of her favorite places.

When we arrived, we stopped at Harley Farms Goat Dairy in tiny Pescadero to sample goat cheese (do we want pistachio and apricot, sun-dried tomato, chive?) — the best I’ve ever tasted — for our picnic overlooking crashing waves at Bean Hollow State Beach. Dessert? Creamy fudge made with goat milk. At Harley Farms, kids can watch as goat cheese is made and ogle the baby goats! (Starting in May, every Saturday, you can check out the Coastside Farmer’s Markets.)

As we walked along Pebble Beach with its distinctive small pebbles instead of sand, local kids explored the tide pools, oblivious to the cold water and wind. An Anemone! A Sea Star!

At Pescadero State Marsh, we followed a trail to watch scores of baby herons in the rookery and laughed at the harbor seals sunning on the rocks at Pescadero State Beach.

One night, we headed to dinner at the popular Peruvian restaurant La Costanera, located on a cliff overlooking the ocean. Spectacular views, spectacular food. (The restaurant is Michelin rated.) We feasted on ceviche (there are more than a dozen to choose from), empanadas (the best I’ve ever eaten), Causas (chilled whipped potatoes topped with mushrooms asparagus and avocado) and excellent seafood Paella. Despite the gourmet eats, I’m told the place is popular with families and is noisy enough that you don’t have to worry about your kids disrupting anyone’s dinner.

Everywhere here is casual and kid-friendly, it seems. The Pastorinos live nearby, but checked in at the Ritz with their two kids (ages 11 and 16) for a special treat, settling in on the Club Level where they even gave us boxes to take snacks for our hikes. “It is so easy,” Dana Pastorino said.

So easy to entertain the kids and at the same time, help them connect to the natural world.

More goat cheese, please!

(For more on Eileen’s visit to San Francisco and Half Moon Bay, read her Travel Diaries.)

© 2012 EILEEN OGINTZ, DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.

Where is the kale?

There’s plenty of spinach, arugula and lettuce but not the kale or the nasturtium the chef had wanted.

Jan Dane doesn’t miss a beat as she looks over the carrots and the radishes, talking to the farmers at the indoor Saturday farmer’s market in Stonington, CT, buying cheese from one, eggs and corn meal from another.

Dane, the mom of three, is a modern day Forager. That means it is her full time job to act as the liaison between local farmers and the chefs at the luxe 49-room Ocean House in Watch Hill, RI which is a designated Relais & Chateaux property with a focus on farm to table cuisine.

That’s why Dane also teaches classes at the hotel—whether how to shuck an oyster or introducing guests to local New England cheeses. “I loved it when a little boy tried his first oyster,” she said. She does classes on butter churning, ice cream making and grilling pizza too.

Of course it is healthier to eat fresh food. It is also important to support local farms and small business.  “Kids are very receptive,” to the message, she reports. Let’s hope the hotel gets more creative with its children’s menu!  

In summer, Dane says, she visits 5-7 farms a week—there are more than 700 food farms just in Rhode Island, she explains. She stops at large and small farmers markets too looking for what’s different (tiny radishes, a  cheese she hasn’t seen before from a local cheese maker…) “I have more than 49 farms on speed dial,” she says.

View of The Ocean House at Watch Hill RI from the beach

The chefs at Ocean House, she jokes, have “an Iron Chef mentality and are always up for a challenge.” And her finds may well end up on the menu. The evening we were there, we enjoyed a six course tasting menu (well-priced I thought at $85, with a wine pairing at $135). We had roasted beets with local Hannahbells cheese, delicious warm potato and leek soup , white Peking Duckling with kale (I guess the chef found it elsewhere)…and more. Throughout the year, there are special Farm + Vine and In the Kitchen dinners highlighting a particular cuisine.

On Sunday,  we enjoyed one of the best brunches I’ve ever had starting with oysters farmed down the road, an assortment of salads—Waldorf, cous cous, marinated artichokes, crepes(beef tenderloin or wild mushroom?) and then a yummy lobster hash sandwich amid other selections.  The atmosphere was lovely too-the dining room with its sweeping ocean views. No wonder so many people come here to celebrate a special occasion!  ($54, $25 for kids plus all the champagne you want.)

The original Ocean House, a grand yellow Victorian hotel overlooking a spectacular private beach with views of the Atlantic and Block Island, opened in 1868 and welcomed genteel guests who came for the entire summer for 135 years. The new structure was built in the footprint of the original and is just celebrating its second anniversary. I love the relaxed elegance, that there are artifacts from the original hotel throughout, the fanciful artwork and thoughtful touches (jars of goldfish and malted milk balls in our room and miniature scones to welcome us.)  There is even a children’s book by local author Ardith M Schneider about two mice, Mortimer and Max who watch the demolition of their old home in the old Ocean House and find a new home in the Watch Hill Chapel across the road. Mortimer Mouse and the New Ocean House.

Did I mention the fabulous OH! Spa with signature services inspired by the ocean and the harvest?  (Think locally harvested lavender, beach stone massage and a facial that uses peach butter and a buckwheat mask.) You won’t want to leave the relaxation room which overlooks the ocean.

The owners now are working to restore the Weekapaug Inn a few miles away that was originally built in 1899 in the community of Weekapaug, Rhode Island, with views of Quonochontaug Pond, and the Atlantic just beyond. 

This 27-room (and four two-bedroom suites) inn will that is expected to open in October with activities that will focus on the water (think sailing and kayaking), the outdoors (think bird watching with the resident naturalist) and bringing families together (think pizza made outside and curling up to read a story or play a game in the expansive public spaces.)

Dane agrees that with kids who are fussy eaters—including one of her own—it is easier to take the path of least resistance and serve them chicken fingers or burgers—the standard kids’ menu fare. Take them to visit a farmer’s market or a farm. (Websites like www.farmfreshri.org  in Rhode Island, www.localharvest.org  and www.farmstayus.com can help)

“You have to be positive about what you are eating and the kids will be responsive to that,” she suggests. Order menu items to share.

“When you are traveling,” Dane continued, “It seems like such an opportunity to get kids to try new foods….it is absolutely part of the adventure!”

In France recently with her children, even her picky eater tried sauces and quiche—a big step for a child who likes everything plain and white. Most restaurants in France didn’t offer children’s menus, Dane said–just smaller portions for smaller prices. “That makes so much sense,” she said.

Clearly.

Reggie at Kirkwood

By Reggie Yemma (photos by Dan Foldes)

After getting news of a spontaneous spring break from work in late March, my boyfriend, Dan Foldes, and I decided to spend our time off by retreating from the city (in our case, San Francisco) and head off on an adventure to the mountains. We both are avid skiers, and have been waiting for just the right time to head to Lake Tahoe this past winter, and now spring.

The California snowfall had not been very heavy all winter (many of our friends would return from the mountains saying that they had done more hiking than skiing most of December and January). However, March was the best month of snow in Tahoe. And, we were excited to do some good hard skiing in South Lake Tahoe at Heavenly and Kirkwood resorts, both of which we had never been.

Capitalizing on the incredible conditions, the majority of the Ski Lake Tahoe resorts have announced they will be extending their seasons with most aiming for the end of April and a few continuing operations into May. Heavenly and Kirkwood extended the season until April 29 and you can ski the rest of the season free if you buy a season pass for 2012-13.

After spending three early-morning hours driving from San Francisco to the beautiful snow-draped Sierra Nevadas, we were treated to a, well, “heavenly” view of blue skies, white mountains, and turquoise water as we ascended the Aerial Tram at Heavenly Ski Resort. We both agreed that this ski area had been aptly named. We looked out over the giant span of beautiful Lake Tahoe from the top of the mountain and watched the Heavenly ski patrol line up for a photo with all of their avalanche rescue dogs. It must have been one of the most breath-taking views I have ever had at a ski resort!

The mood amongst our fellow skiers on the Thursday when we arrived was quite pleasant and cheery.  Although Heavenly’s – and indeed California’s – snowfall this year has been decidedly light, Wednesday had seen a good accumulation of snow, so conditions were good for bounding around on the slopes.  Upon exploring the mountain on our first few runs, we were struck by Heavenly’s vast amount of terrain. Friendlier than normal lift operators were happy to tell us where the best runs on the mountain were.

Our exploration eventually led us to the remote Killebrew Canyon area, where we were treated to fresh tracks and a peaceful traverse out, overlooking the infinite Nevadan plain below. We spent most of the rest of the day skiing the challenging chutes of nearby Mott Canyon as well as the fun, moderate runs off the Dipper Express lift. I decided to warm up with a hot drink at East Peak Lodge while Dan did a few more runs, and was excited to have free refills of hot chocolate with endless amounts of whipped cream and mini-marshmallows!

Après ski, we took the gondola down to Heavenly Village and wound down around a warm outdoor fire pit at Restaurant Fire and Ice. We enjoyed their happy hour special with bloody Mary cocktails. We then decided there was no better way to spend our night than to see “The Hunger Games” at Heavenly Village Cinemas. A fan of the books, the movie did not disappoint!

We got to bed early to rest up for another big day at nearby Kirkwood. We had heard a lot about its extreme terrain, and were super excited to finally see for ourselves the steep slopes Kirkwood had to offer. We arrived right as the lifts opened and immediately headed up The Wall lift. The snow was soft and the slopes were steep as we challenged ourselves to ski fast and try some new routes. We especially enjoyed skiing down Eagle Bowl and Headwaters. From The Wall, we headed over to Sunrise lift for a few runs, and got a chance to spot some extreme snowboarders getting ready to take part in The North Face Masters of Snowboarding competition.

Fundraising for Kirkwood Ski Patrol

On our way back over to the Mountain Village Area, we ran into one of the happiest dogs in the world, a member of the Kirkwood Ski Patrol! We spent the rest of the afternoon skiing on the Cornice Express Lift, finding stashes of fresh snow, tight cliff tunnels to squeeze to, and mini-cornices to jump off of.

Not wanting to leave, we decided it was time to hit the road back to San Francisco. But, we cannot wait to come back next season to explore the extreme terrain of this mountain way more. Here’s to some late season snow, and a beautiful spring break in Lake Tahoe!

Ethan and Hannah viewing Yellowstone bear from a safe distance

By Eileen Ogintz
Tribune Media Services

Meet Ethan Eagle.

Let’s not forget Oscar Osprey, Brett Bison, Freddy Frog and Tommy Trout.

My young cousins Ethan Sitzman, 9, and his sister Hannah, 6, who live in Denver, named all the wildlife we saw as we explored perhaps America’s greatest natural zoo — Yellowstone National Park where 67 species of mammals, 322 species of birds, six species of reptiles and four species of amphibians call home.

But a visit to a national park — even Yellowstone — is more than the chance to see wildlife and spectacular scenery, like the two enormous waterfalls at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, geothermal features like Old Faithful (Did you know Yellowstone has more geothermal features than anywhere else in the world?) or to learn that Yellowstone was originally named for the yellow tint in the rock, derived from sulfur.

A visit to a national park is about stepping out of your comfort zone, overcoming challenges as a family, whether on a long kayak paddle before 7 a.m. (yes, that was us on Yellowstone Lake last summer leaving our wilderness camp where we’d spent two nights as far away from tourists as we could get) or in Ethan’s case, overcoming a long-held fear.

As we celebrate National Park Week from April 21 to 29 (all 397 national parks are free with many special activities offered.) It’s important to remember that the best part of a national park experience can be the chance to reconnect with the outdoors as a family. “Kids forget about iPads, iPhones, TV, etc., says Dan Austin, of Austin-Lehman Adventures whose company has been leading trips to Yellowstone, and other national parks, for more than 25 years.

“These experiences open the mind to endless discoveries and, more often than not, a passion for the outdoors that can last a lifetime,” he says.

It’s something I’ve witnessed in my own family. My youngest daughter, Mel, says those national parks trips when she was little (and complained her legs were “broken” from all the hiking) spurred her interest in environmental science — her college major; her older sister, Reg, went on to lead teens on wilderness trips in national parks and now works for Vida Verde, a California nonprofit organization that enables inner-city kids to have outdoor experiences. (Think hiking past towering redwoods, exploring tide pools or getting up close and personal with goats.)

Head to a national park near your home and celebrate Junior Ranger Day on April 28. Whet your kids’ appetite for a summer visit to a national park through WebRangers, the National Park Service’s site for kids, which offers all kinds of activities and games. To date, some 200,000 kids have taken part in the program! In honor of National Park Week, Lonely Planet has created a free download of the USA’s Best National Parks’ Top 15 Experiences, including great planning information, from their “Discover USA’s Best National Parks” guide. It’s available on their Facebook page or at LonelyPlanet.com.

Wherever you are outdoors, especially in a big national park, the key is to slow down and get out of the car (many visitors don’t) and off the beaten track, Dan Austin says.

That’s how we were able to watch Yellowstone’s famous bears safely. Rangers estimate that about 150 grizzly bears and more than 500 black bears live in the park and visitors are cautioned to stay at least the length of a football field away from them. Our Austin-Lehman guide, Matty Kirkland, spied one from our van, turned around, parked and raced up a hill with his scope so we could watch as the bear (the kids named him Bobby) snacked on greens amid the wildflowers hundreds of yards away, oblivious to our presence.

Certainly watching that bear in his own environment from a safe distance was a wondrous site, but more important was watching Ethan triumph over his fear of the lumbering beasts, once Kirkland convinced him to peer through the scope.

Until that moment, I’d wondered if we really needed guides in Yellowstone. It’s not a far-flung destination, after all, where we don’t speak the language. But throughout that trip, we saw a far different Yellowstone than we had in the past and it was far more relaxed. Our affable Austin-Lehman guides not only got us away from the crowds to places I wouldn’t have found, but also thoroughly entertained the kids (they sat between a giant stuffed bear in the van), had snacks at the ready, told us what to look for and then explained what we were seeing. We didn’t have to worry about hard-to-get hotel reservations and the best part: The kids didn’t bicker or whine because they were having so much fun. (All-inclusive Austin-Lehman Yellowstone trips start at $367 per day for adults and $293 for kids. A new Montana Family Camp itinerary that includes Yellowstone is less expensive.)

Other companies, including Adventures by Disney, Backroads and Tauck Tours are among those who also offer special guided Yellowstone and national parks trips for families, enabling you to focus on the experience rather than the logistics.

If your kids are 8 or older, you can also sign on for a five-night Total Yellowstone package through the park’s concessionaire (pricing information).

If you prefer going on your own, take advantage of ranger-led activities. Ask their advice for kid-friendly hikes and experiences inside the parks. Use websites like ParkVisitor.com, which pull together user reviews of U.S. national and state parks and more with insider tips (even where to get a good burger). For iPhone and iPad users, there’s even a new Passport to Your National Parks app. Don’t despair if you can’t get reservations when and where you want to go. Consider some of the less visited but equally wonderful parks like Theodore Roosevelt in North Dakota, Sequoia and Kings Canyon in California, North Cascades in Washington State and Mesa Verde in Colorado, among others (www.nps.gov.)

Last summer, after three days and two nights camping in Yellowstone, Ethan and Hannah had completed the activities required to become Junior Rangers (everything from tracing the route we’d taken through the park to checking off all the animals they’d seen) and they stood proudly at the Mammoth Hot Springs Visitor Center as a ranger swore them in as Junior Rangers.

Watching their excitement at being in one of our country’s greatest treasures was worth every mosquito bite we’d gotten.

“As a Yellowstone Junior Ranger … I will continue to learn about the natural world, even after I leave Yellowstone,” they pledged.

I hope they will. I know they won’t forget the days they’ve spent here. And that’s a good first step.

(For more on Eileen’s trip to Yellowstone and Montana, read her Travel Diaries) 

© 2012 EILEEN OGINTZ, DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.

Desserts at the Sunday brunch Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay

Sushi…dim sum…corn bisque, chilled mint pea soup… Peking Duck…roast beef, ham..Thai curry…freshly shucked oysters and shrimp

I don’t know where to start.

We are at the Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay’s Sunday Brunch that is so popular in the Bay area that people drive an hour or more to indulge.

There are some 300 items to choose from and not a chicken finger in sight, says Executive Chef  Xavier Salomon. Chef Salomon  says at the brunch  he doesn’t do “kids food”  and parents rarely ask for it—not when kids can eat delectable dim sum, mashed potatoes, roast beef, veggies in season, mini quiches.. “And of course they go crazy for the deserts,” he says with a smile—nutella crepes,  apple, blackberry and peach marshmallows, chocolate mousse, flan, tiny tarts , fresh berries and cream, miniature cakes too pretty to eat (chocolate raspberry dome anyone?)

Perhaps what makes this brunch different than those at most hotels is that much of the food is locally sourced—all the fruits, vegetables, the chicken, the beef, the ham, the lamb.  Chef Salomon says he’s most proud that the food at the brunch is so fresh coming from a dozen local farms and purveyors with 11 chefs cooking, slicing and serving  as we eat—shucking oysters, carving beef, cutting chicken—so that nothing sits in chafing dishes.

The day we visited was  Easter Sunday with  little girls kids dressed in   brightly colored dresses, boys in dress shirts and grownups sporting pink and purple bunny ears. There was an Easter Egg hunt going on outside and a visiting petting zoo with baby goats, chicks and bunnies. To whet our appetite for the brunch, we took a long walk along the Coastal Trail that is popular with dog owners and visitors with high cliffs, crashing surf, sea birds…

This is one of the best brunches I’ve ever experienced and I’ve seen a lot of them—likely because of the freshness of everything that is served. This is an area after also known for its farms and the variety of what is served from the Thai chicken curry to the  seared miniature lamb chops  and lavender honey glazed ham to Dungeness crab and baby carrots.

You’ve got to come hungry and plan to stay awhile which we do, taking in the spectacular  Pacific Ocean views just outside.

That goes for kids too. “Parents want the kids to experience  different foods,” the chef says.   Out of maybe 1000 covers on a Sunday, he says, he might have only two requests for chicken fingers or fries which he will of course bring. That’s not the same for room service, he adds, when kids’ items are far better sellers than the petite filet or broiled chicken breast that is on the kids’ menu.

“I grew up in France,” the Chef says.”We never ate all of this fried food like they do here!”  And with food like this, there’s no need to. Pass the sushi.

Reggie examines a bananna slug in Redwood grove

The Giant Redwoods, soaring hundreds of feet in the air, were amazing. But what was even better was the conversations with my daughter Reggie as we hiked through Butano State Park in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is her turf—she works near here at Vida Verde, a nonprofit organization that provides environmental programs for inner city kids–and she knows the area well. But we don’t get to see her often and I’m glad for the opportunity to catch up. That we’re in such a beautiful spot is a bonus.

We were midway between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay,  where we are staying at the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay  and only a little more than an hour from San Francisco .

Besides the giant redwoods, Butano is known for its bio-diversity (Butano is thought to be named after a drinking cup from a bull horn).  We walk past groves of Redwood “families” some with their innards carved out as the result of forest fires. We learn that Redwoods get about 30 per cent of their moisture from fog but as the climate warms, less fog threatens their survival. Butano State Park—one of the least known of the California parks—is home to a Redwood/Douglas Fir Forest.

We see plump yellow banana slugs, blooming Trillium a member of the lily family, and the tiny Calypso orchid during our five-mile hike.

We stop for a snack—courtesy of the Ritz which offers Club level guests the chance to pack “box lunches” from the bountiful breakfast offerings. (There are always cookies and penny candies too—perfect to take along on a hike)   

I’d forgotten how much good conversation happens as you hike along without any distractions (no cell service here)!   

There are the chances for all kinds of hikes here including the long Coastal walks (as I look out my hotel window, I see the crashing Pacific Ocean) we take the following morning.  

There is camping at Butano State Park but I’m glad we can repair to the Ritz. After a shower, we head up to the Club Lounge for snacks and drinks. It is crowded with families—kids watching the wedding taking place in the courtyard below.

The Pastorinos live nearby but checked in over night with their two kids ages 11 and 16 for a special treat. “It is so easy,” said Dana Pastorino. “We don’t even have to go to a restaurant…We have something to eat, come back in a few hours for something else…and then desert… it is a huge treat!

“It’s really convenient and the food is really good,” agreed 16-year-old Paige Pastorino.

“I can get what I want and I don’t have to wait,” added her 11-year-old brotherPeyton.  The best part, the two alleged, was no nagging from their parents to finish a restaurant meal. “And you don’t have to ask anyone for anything…you just go up and get it,” said Peyton.

We left the other families making dinner out of the bountiful offerings —everything from cheeses and crackers to seared scallops, salami, and more….to head to one of the area’s most popular restaurants Pasta Moon in Half Moon Bay, celebrating its 25^th anniversary and known for its farm-to-table philosophy. The restaurant has made it a priority from the beginning to seek and serve what’s in season from local farmers and has been at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement.

We love the ambiance –the brightly painted walls, the guitarist is playing in the lounge.

Asparagus are in season and we are served them Misto — gently fried in a light batter. Yum!   The Bruschetta is made with local greens and sundried tomato pesto.  My husband has Ravioli Butternut Squash —all of pasta is house made— and my daughter Eggplant Parmesan with fresh mozzarella and basil.   I opt for the nightly pasta special with more local veggies.

We end with a house speciality butterscotch pudding.

Yum!  A terrific way to end a terrific day.

I love it when the conversation at dinner is as good as the food!

With the baby goats at Vida Verde

Wow!

We’re less than an hour south of San Francisco but a world away—dramatic crashing ocean waves on one side; farms on the other.

We walk a trail at Pescadero State Marsh, watching scores of baby Herons in the trees in a rookery and spy a turtle in water. We laugh at the harbor seals sunning on the rocks at Pescadero State Beach.  

We stop at Harley’s Farm and Goat Dairy in tiny Pescadero to sample goat cheese (do we want pistachio and apricot, sundried tomato, chive?)… the best goat cheese I’ve ever tasted….  for our picnic  overlooking crashing waves at Bean Hollow State Beach . Dessert? Creamy fudge made with goat milk. (Come starting in May on Saturdays and check out the Coastside Farmer’s Market.)

There are many farms and wineries to visit here, the chance to whale-watch, kayak, even stay in a light house (HI-Pigeon Point Lighthouse, one of the tallest and most photographed lighthouses in the country is now a hostel!) … and simply enjoy nature at its best

We walk along Pebble Beach with its distinctive small pebbles instead of sand. Kids are exploring the tide pools. An Anemone! A Sea Star!  It’s chilly and we’re glad for the sunshine. It’s a perfect spring day

One reason for our visit: The chance to see  Vida Verde where my daughter Reggie works—a nonprofit organization that provides overnight environmental educational programs for inner city kids.  We ogle the newborn baby goats. So cute!

Our final destination is the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay that is one of the most spectacular hotel locations I’ve ever seen. The hotel is high on scenic bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean with two golf courses, tennis courts, walking trails to the beach and outdoor fire pits. (They leave us s’mores kits in our room.  Some rooms have their own private fire pits where guests can sit and take in the ocean views.)

I love being on the Club Level where we have access to the Club Lounge with complimentary breakfast, lunch, snacks, and, before dinner, delectable snacks (grilled artichokes? Shrimp? Cheeses?)

There are many families here who tell me the charge ($150 per room) is well worth it for the chance to relax while the kids grab something to eat without waiting in a restaurant. Kathleen and Don Tanaka are here with their two kids from Saratoga, CA for an overnight with friends and their kids. “We can relax and they have their own space,” she said, gesturing to her two kids peering out the window at the wedding taking place outside at the hotel.

“If you want anything it is always there,” said Makaela Tanaka, 12. The best part: The jars of penny candy that the kids can help themselves to “They pretty much have everything we want, especially the candy!”

“If you want something, you can just go get it,” added nine year old Mason Lafreniere, who is from Los Gatos, CA.

“We don’t have to worry about the kids here,” said Kathy Lafreniere. And on vacation, that counts for a lot

We learn this Coast with its hidden coves, thick fog and isolated canyons was ideal for rum runners from Canada and local moon shiners. Speakeasies were popular here then. Now there are farms that date back to the 1800s, miles of white beaches (here’s the place to horseback ride along the beach), Redwood forests and hiking an d biking trails along the bluffs and among the mountains.  There’s whale watching thru April, kayaking, fishing, even the chance to see how cheese is made.  And of course, the chance to sample plenty of farm-to-table good eats.

With four regions to explore – the North Coast, Half Moon Bay, the South Coast and the Redwood Region – we can’t fit it all in one weekend. We simply follow my daughter Reggie’s lead to some of her favorite places.

This area, we learn, is also home California’s first and only broad based ecotourism visitor program, through which more than 30 farmers, fisherman and business community members have come together to offer visitors hands-on activities and a chance to meet local residents.  To be included in the Ecotourism Map, all businesses had to agree to follow important environmental standards.

 We head to dinner at the popular Peruvian La Costanera, on a cliff overlooking the ocean that offers spectacular views as well as spectacular food (he restaurant is recommended in the Michelin Guide.) We feast on ceviche (there are over a dozen to choose from), empanadas (the best I’ve ever eaten), Causas (chilled whipped potatoes topped with mushrooms asparagus and avocado) and excellent seafood Paella.  Still, the managers tell me, the place welcomes many children and it is noisy enough that you don’t have to worry about disrupting anyone’s dinner.  

On to the Redwoods tomorrow! I’m glad we’ve got another sunny day.