Summer holidays with the kids are the best time to get away as a family and spend some quality time together.  But when it comes to the practicalities of keeping kids safe under the sun, putting on sunscreen on the beach can be a bit of a struggle with them raring to hit the waves, build sandcastles and eat (by now sandy) sandwiches. 

Worries about the sun and skincare issues can put some parents off from venturing to sunnier climates, but if you listen to the experts and choose wisely where you holiday, your annual family escape to the sun will go swimmingly!

According to skin specialists, 50% of our exposure to sunlight occurs in childhood. Making it even more pertinent advice to keep covered and protect your children’s skin from sun damage.  By following some simple advice, both parents and kids can frolic about on the beach without the worry about skin damage (and the discomfort of sleepless nights from sunburn).

The first thing to remember is that kids should spend as little time as possible in direct sunlight abroad, which means avoiding the hottest mid-day temperatures when the sun is at its strongest.  Protective measures such as sunhats and long-sleeved cotton   t-shirts can help when on the beach and it’s advisable to keep to shadier areas.  However, this is not necessarily that unless you go to a resort where beach areas provide loungers and large umbrellas that provide shade.

Many holiday resorts are aware of the needs of parents to keep their children in the shade as much as possible.  So you’ve chosen a destination but want to make sure you can find a resort that is aware of your needs to keep your children safe from the sun? 

One of the companies keeping this in mind is On the Beach, who specialise in holidays Spain bound, with many of its resorts providing kids’ clubs so you can take your children to the beach in the early morning or in the afternoon when the sun is weaker and let them make friends and fun memories in the Kids’ Clubs during the day. And did we forget to mention that then you can have a break?!

It’s important to remember that infants should never be exposed to direct sunlight and that high-factor sunscreen that is specifically designed for children (of at least SPF 30+) should be used.  For more advice about skincare on holidays a good place to go is the NetDoctor, a site giving tips on sun damage prevention.  So once you’ve arrived in that Spanish paradise, got the suncream on and hit the beach, the only thing left to do is relax.

Snuba in Puerto Rico

By Meghan McCloskey

“There are only three things you need to remember about Snuba,” said the bronzen instructor, “Breathe, never take off your oxygen mask and don’t swim off like a mermaid.” 

Easy enough, I think, considering one of the three rules is an instinct. ‘Snuba’ is not a typo, it’s one of the fastest growing aquatic activities that combines the best of snorkeling and scuba diving and allows you to explore coral reefs in the depths of the tropical seas without getting scuba diving certified. 

I jump, flippers first, off the back of the boat into the warm waters off the coast of Guánica, Puerto Rico.  Before I know it I’m fifteen feet underwater immersed in a delicate coral reef, face to face with iridescent fish in their natural habitat.  The only underwater communication I’ll be using is the ‘ok sign,’ which is Snuba for “this is awesome!”

Puerto Rico offers plenty of adrenaline inducing activities without the headache of complicated travel arrangements.  For families with a mix of daredevils and sunbathers, you can’t go wrong with this destination.  You don’t even need a passport to enter Puerto Rico, which is approximately a 4-hour flight from New York.  Despite its convenience, when you land in Puerto Rico and you stare out at the banana groves and the cerulean blue waters, you will feel as though your stresses are a world away.  

My destination is Copamarina Beach Resort in the small town of Guánica, a place where locals take pride in their land and go to great lengths to preserve the natural areas. Guánica is home to the largest dry forest in the world, a water-deprived ecosystem where the trees and cactus only grow one to five feet, yet sometimes to the age of 700 years.  Besides biologists from around the world, the free park attracts mountain bikers who could start at the top of the cliffside forest and bike down to Compamarina Resort to relax by the pool. Jose Luis at the information hut will point you towards a trail to meet your interests, whether it is a stroll to breathe in the fragrant fresh air or a quest to spot the rare Puerto Rican Whip-poor-will.

Copamarina hosts one of the best water sport centers for families on the island because there are options for all ages and skill levels.  There are opportunities for scuba diving, kayaking, paddle boarding and even HobiCat sailcraft.  Little ones can team up with parents and older siblings on a three-person kayak to embark on a trip to the forested Gilligan’s Island and even have a picnic on with white sandy beaches.  Not up for the challenge? Put up your feet and take in the views of Guanica at sunset from off shore aboard a pontoon boat.

I try my hand at paddleboarding, an ancient Hawaiian version of surfing, where the audacious rider balances on two feet on top of a surfboard and propels through the water with a giant oar.  Unfortunately, Poseidon is against me on the uncommonly windy day and the waves forbid me from reaching Gilligan’s Island.  I resign to shore, but an aromatherapy massage awaits me at the Bodyderm Spa of Copamarina.  As traditional Puerto Rican music soothes me, I treat my deserving muscles, feeling surprisingly accomplished for a vacation day.

Most visitors to Copamarina opt for the all-inclusive package, a real steal and the only package of its type on the island.  Parents will love daytime dining at the al fresco café, Las Palmas where you can try Puerto Rican fusion like mofongo (root vegetable-based dish) stuffed with grouper while kids can munch on comfort foods. Steal away for an evening and dine at the elegant Alexandra Restaurant, which offers innovative cuisine while being serenaded by the violin of a local music professor.  The filet mignon is a must-try!

If you want one more taste of Puerto Rico before heading home, stay at Courtyard Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort, found on a slice of pristine beach conveniently located a half a mile from the San Juan airport.  The energetic ones in the group can rent a boogie board or surfboard to tackle the waves.  Want to rest up before heading back to the real world?  No problem, you can recline on a spacious hammock and gaze out at the beach or hedge your bets at the in-house casino.

I head back to the airport, adrenaline still piping through me.  It’s a good thing that Puerto Rico is so accessible because I’ll be back soon for more adventure!

Eileen and Reggie pause in the redwood grove

By Eileen Ogintz
Tribune Media Services

We’re walking past groves of soaring redwood “families,” some with their innards carved out as the result of forest fires.

But we’re not in a crowded national park. In fact, we’ve pretty much got the hiking trail to ourselves in Butano State Park in the Santa Cruz Mountains, midway between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay and only a little more than an hour from San Francisco. Butano State Park — one of the least known of the California parks — is home to a spectacular redwood/Douglas fir forest.

During our five-mile hike, we see plump yellow banana slugs, the tiny Calypso orchid and blooming trillium, a member of the lily family. But the best part is the conversations with my daughter, Reg, who lives across the country from us in San Francisco. I’d forgotten how conducive hiking is to catching up!

We’re spending the weekend here in Half Moon Bay with Reg, who works near here, and her boyfriend Dan Foldes, and I can’t think of a better respite from city living — a spectacular coast and beaches (great tide-pooling), the chance to hike through the redwoods, visit farms (ogle the baby goats) and restaurants that have been at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement.

Asparagus is in season and it’s served to us — gently fried in a light batter at Pasta Moon in Half Moon Bay, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary. From the beginning, these restaurants have been known for serving what is in season from local farmers. You can point out veggies to the kids in the fields and farmer’s markets and then bring them here to eat them.

There are farms that date back to the 1800s (come in fall for the big pumpkin festival), miles of white sand beaches (here’s the place to horseback ride along the beach), redwood forests and hiking and biking trails along the bluffs and among the mountains. There’s kayaking, fishing and even the chance to see how cheese is made. And, of course, the chance to sample plenty of farm-to-table good eats.

This area, we learn, is home California’s first and only broad-based ecotourism visitor program, through which more than 30 farmers, fishermen and community business members have come together to offer visitors hands-on activities and a chance to meet local residents. In order to be included in the Ecotourism Map, all businesses had to agree to follow certain environmental standards. You have your choice of options where to stay — even Pigeon Point Lighthouse, one of the tallest and most photographed lighthouses in the country, is now a hostel!)

We opt to pamper ourselves — along with other families, we meet — at the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, one of the most spectacular hotel locations I’ve ever seen. The hotel is high on scenic bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean with two golf courses, tennis courts, walking trails to the beach and outdoor fire pits. (They leave us s’mores kits in our room.) Some rooms have their own private fire pits where guests can sit and take in the ocean.)

San Franciscans make the drive just for the fantastic Sunday brunch, (which will be especially busy Mother’s Day). It offers more than 300 items, much of which, according to Executive Chef Xavier Salomon, comes from a dozen local farms and purveyors. And not a chicken finger in sight. Chef Salomon says he doesn’t do “kids’ food” at the brunch and parents rarely ask for it — not when kids can eat delectable dim sum and sushi, mashed potatoes, roast beef, veggies in season and mini quiches. “And, of course, they go crazy for the desserts,” Salomon says with a smile. (There are Nutella crepes, apple, blackberry and peach marshmallows, chocolate mousse, flan, tiny tarts, fresh berries and cream and miniature cakes too pretty to eat. Chocolate raspberry dome, anyone?)

Good thing there are so many hiking options to walk off brunch! But with four regions to explore around Half Moon Bay — the North Coast, Half Moon Bay, the South Coast and the Redwood Region — we can’t fit it all in one weekend. We simply follow my daughter’s lead to some of her favorite places.

When we arrived, we stopped at Harley Farms Goat Dairy in tiny Pescadero to sample goat cheese (do we want pistachio and apricot, sun-dried tomato, chive?) — the best I’ve ever tasted — for our picnic overlooking crashing waves at Bean Hollow State Beach. Dessert? Creamy fudge made with goat milk. At Harley Farms, kids can watch as goat cheese is made and ogle the baby goats! (Starting in May, every Saturday, you can check out the Coastside Farmer’s Markets.)

As we walked along Pebble Beach with its distinctive small pebbles instead of sand, local kids explored the tide pools, oblivious to the cold water and wind. An Anemone! A Sea Star!

At Pescadero State Marsh, we followed a trail to watch scores of baby herons in the rookery and laughed at the harbor seals sunning on the rocks at Pescadero State Beach.

One night, we headed to dinner at the popular Peruvian restaurant La Costanera, located on a cliff overlooking the ocean. Spectacular views, spectacular food. (The restaurant is Michelin rated.) We feasted on ceviche (there are more than a dozen to choose from), empanadas (the best I’ve ever eaten), Causas (chilled whipped potatoes topped with mushrooms asparagus and avocado) and excellent seafood Paella. Despite the gourmet eats, I’m told the place is popular with families and is noisy enough that you don’t have to worry about your kids disrupting anyone’s dinner.

Everywhere here is casual and kid-friendly, it seems. The Pastorinos live nearby, but checked in at the Ritz with their two kids (ages 11 and 16) for a special treat, settling in on the Club Level where they even gave us boxes to take snacks for our hikes. “It is so easy,” Dana Pastorino said.

So easy to entertain the kids and at the same time, help them connect to the natural world.

More goat cheese, please!

(For more on Eileen’s visit to San Francisco and Half Moon Bay, read her Travel Diaries.)

© 2012 EILEEN OGINTZ, DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.

Reggie at Kirkwood

By Reggie Yemma (photos by Dan Foldes)

After getting news of a spontaneous spring break from work in late March, my boyfriend, Dan Foldes, and I decided to spend our time off by retreating from the city (in our case, San Francisco) and head off on an adventure to the mountains. We both are avid skiers, and have been waiting for just the right time to head to Lake Tahoe this past winter, and now spring.

The California snowfall had not been very heavy all winter (many of our friends would return from the mountains saying that they had done more hiking than skiing most of December and January). However, March was the best month of snow in Tahoe. And, we were excited to do some good hard skiing in South Lake Tahoe at Heavenly and Kirkwood resorts, both of which we had never been.

Capitalizing on the incredible conditions, the majority of the Ski Lake Tahoe resorts have announced they will be extending their seasons with most aiming for the end of April and a few continuing operations into May. Heavenly and Kirkwood extended the season until April 29 and you can ski the rest of the season free if you buy a season pass for 2012-13.

After spending three early-morning hours driving from San Francisco to the beautiful snow-draped Sierra Nevadas, we were treated to a, well, “heavenly” view of blue skies, white mountains, and turquoise water as we ascended the Aerial Tram at Heavenly Ski Resort. We both agreed that this ski area had been aptly named. We looked out over the giant span of beautiful Lake Tahoe from the top of the mountain and watched the Heavenly ski patrol line up for a photo with all of their avalanche rescue dogs. It must have been one of the most breath-taking views I have ever had at a ski resort!

The mood amongst our fellow skiers on the Thursday when we arrived was quite pleasant and cheery.  Although Heavenly’s – and indeed California’s – snowfall this year has been decidedly light, Wednesday had seen a good accumulation of snow, so conditions were good for bounding around on the slopes.  Upon exploring the mountain on our first few runs, we were struck by Heavenly’s vast amount of terrain. Friendlier than normal lift operators were happy to tell us where the best runs on the mountain were.

Our exploration eventually led us to the remote Killebrew Canyon area, where we were treated to fresh tracks and a peaceful traverse out, overlooking the infinite Nevadan plain below. We spent most of the rest of the day skiing the challenging chutes of nearby Mott Canyon as well as the fun, moderate runs off the Dipper Express lift. I decided to warm up with a hot drink at East Peak Lodge while Dan did a few more runs, and was excited to have free refills of hot chocolate with endless amounts of whipped cream and mini-marshmallows!

Après ski, we took the gondola down to Heavenly Village and wound down around a warm outdoor fire pit at Restaurant Fire and Ice. We enjoyed their happy hour special with bloody Mary cocktails. We then decided there was no better way to spend our night than to see “The Hunger Games” at Heavenly Village Cinemas. A fan of the books, the movie did not disappoint!

We got to bed early to rest up for another big day at nearby Kirkwood. We had heard a lot about its extreme terrain, and were super excited to finally see for ourselves the steep slopes Kirkwood had to offer. We arrived right as the lifts opened and immediately headed up The Wall lift. The snow was soft and the slopes were steep as we challenged ourselves to ski fast and try some new routes. We especially enjoyed skiing down Eagle Bowl and Headwaters. From The Wall, we headed over to Sunrise lift for a few runs, and got a chance to spot some extreme snowboarders getting ready to take part in The North Face Masters of Snowboarding competition.

Fundraising for Kirkwood Ski Patrol

On our way back over to the Mountain Village Area, we ran into one of the happiest dogs in the world, a member of the Kirkwood Ski Patrol! We spent the rest of the afternoon skiing on the Cornice Express Lift, finding stashes of fresh snow, tight cliff tunnels to squeeze to, and mini-cornices to jump off of.

Not wanting to leave, we decided it was time to hit the road back to San Francisco. But, we cannot wait to come back next season to explore the extreme terrain of this mountain way more. Here’s to some late season snow, and a beautiful spring break in Lake Tahoe!

Ethan and Hannah viewing Yellowstone bear from a safe distance

By Eileen Ogintz
Tribune Media Services

Meet Ethan Eagle.

Let’s not forget Oscar Osprey, Brett Bison, Freddy Frog and Tommy Trout.

My young cousins Ethan Sitzman, 9, and his sister Hannah, 6, who live in Denver, named all the wildlife we saw as we explored perhaps America’s greatest natural zoo — Yellowstone National Park where 67 species of mammals, 322 species of birds, six species of reptiles and four species of amphibians call home.

But a visit to a national park — even Yellowstone — is more than the chance to see wildlife and spectacular scenery, like the two enormous waterfalls at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, geothermal features like Old Faithful (Did you know Yellowstone has more geothermal features than anywhere else in the world?) or to learn that Yellowstone was originally named for the yellow tint in the rock, derived from sulfur.

A visit to a national park is about stepping out of your comfort zone, overcoming challenges as a family, whether on a long kayak paddle before 7 a.m. (yes, that was us on Yellowstone Lake last summer leaving our wilderness camp where we’d spent two nights as far away from tourists as we could get) or in Ethan’s case, overcoming a long-held fear.

As we celebrate National Park Week from April 21 to 29 (all 397 national parks are free with many special activities offered.) It’s important to remember that the best part of a national park experience can be the chance to reconnect with the outdoors as a family. “Kids forget about iPads, iPhones, TV, etc., says Dan Austin, of Austin-Lehman Adventures whose company has been leading trips to Yellowstone, and other national parks, for more than 25 years.

“These experiences open the mind to endless discoveries and, more often than not, a passion for the outdoors that can last a lifetime,” he says.

It’s something I’ve witnessed in my own family. My youngest daughter, Mel, says those national parks trips when she was little (and complained her legs were “broken” from all the hiking) spurred her interest in environmental science — her college major; her older sister, Reg, went on to lead teens on wilderness trips in national parks and now works for Vida Verde, a California nonprofit organization that enables inner-city kids to have outdoor experiences. (Think hiking past towering redwoods, exploring tide pools or getting up close and personal with goats.)

Head to a national park near your home and celebrate Junior Ranger Day on April 28. Whet your kids’ appetite for a summer visit to a national park through WebRangers, the National Park Service’s site for kids, which offers all kinds of activities and games. To date, some 200,000 kids have taken part in the program! In honor of National Park Week, Lonely Planet has created a free download of the USA’s Best National Parks’ Top 15 Experiences, including great planning information, from their “Discover USA’s Best National Parks” guide. It’s available on their Facebook page or at LonelyPlanet.com.

Wherever you are outdoors, especially in a big national park, the key is to slow down and get out of the car (many visitors don’t) and off the beaten track, Dan Austin says.

That’s how we were able to watch Yellowstone’s famous bears safely. Rangers estimate that about 150 grizzly bears and more than 500 black bears live in the park and visitors are cautioned to stay at least the length of a football field away from them. Our Austin-Lehman guide, Matty Kirkland, spied one from our van, turned around, parked and raced up a hill with his scope so we could watch as the bear (the kids named him Bobby) snacked on greens amid the wildflowers hundreds of yards away, oblivious to our presence.

Certainly watching that bear in his own environment from a safe distance was a wondrous site, but more important was watching Ethan triumph over his fear of the lumbering beasts, once Kirkland convinced him to peer through the scope.

Until that moment, I’d wondered if we really needed guides in Yellowstone. It’s not a far-flung destination, after all, where we don’t speak the language. But throughout that trip, we saw a far different Yellowstone than we had in the past and it was far more relaxed. Our affable Austin-Lehman guides not only got us away from the crowds to places I wouldn’t have found, but also thoroughly entertained the kids (they sat between a giant stuffed bear in the van), had snacks at the ready, told us what to look for and then explained what we were seeing. We didn’t have to worry about hard-to-get hotel reservations and the best part: The kids didn’t bicker or whine because they were having so much fun. (All-inclusive Austin-Lehman Yellowstone trips start at $367 per day for adults and $293 for kids. A new Montana Family Camp itinerary that includes Yellowstone is less expensive.)

Other companies, including Adventures by Disney, Backroads and Tauck Tours are among those who also offer special guided Yellowstone and national parks trips for families, enabling you to focus on the experience rather than the logistics.

If your kids are 8 or older, you can also sign on for a five-night Total Yellowstone package through the park’s concessionaire (pricing information).

If you prefer going on your own, take advantage of ranger-led activities. Ask their advice for kid-friendly hikes and experiences inside the parks. Use websites like ParkVisitor.com, which pull together user reviews of U.S. national and state parks and more with insider tips (even where to get a good burger). For iPhone and iPad users, there’s even a new Passport to Your National Parks app. Don’t despair if you can’t get reservations when and where you want to go. Consider some of the less visited but equally wonderful parks like Theodore Roosevelt in North Dakota, Sequoia and Kings Canyon in California, North Cascades in Washington State and Mesa Verde in Colorado, among others (www.nps.gov.)

Last summer, after three days and two nights camping in Yellowstone, Ethan and Hannah had completed the activities required to become Junior Rangers (everything from tracing the route we’d taken through the park to checking off all the animals they’d seen) and they stood proudly at the Mammoth Hot Springs Visitor Center as a ranger swore them in as Junior Rangers.

Watching their excitement at being in one of our country’s greatest treasures was worth every mosquito bite we’d gotten.

“As a Yellowstone Junior Ranger … I will continue to learn about the natural world, even after I leave Yellowstone,” they pledged.

I hope they will. I know they won’t forget the days they’ve spent here. And that’s a good first step.

(For more on Eileen’s trip to Yellowstone and Montana, read her Travel Diaries) 

© 2012 EILEEN OGINTZ, DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.

Reggie examines a bananna slug in Redwood grove

The Giant Redwoods, soaring hundreds of feet in the air, were amazing. But what was even better was the conversations with my daughter Reggie as we hiked through Butano State Park in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is her turf—she works near here at Vida Verde, a nonprofit organization that provides environmental programs for inner city kids–and she knows the area well. But we don’t get to see her often and I’m glad for the opportunity to catch up. That we’re in such a beautiful spot is a bonus.

We were midway between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay,  where we are staying at the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay  and only a little more than an hour from San Francisco .

Besides the giant redwoods, Butano is known for its bio-diversity (Butano is thought to be named after a drinking cup from a bull horn).  We walk past groves of Redwood “families” some with their innards carved out as the result of forest fires. We learn that Redwoods get about 30 per cent of their moisture from fog but as the climate warms, less fog threatens their survival. Butano State Park—one of the least known of the California parks—is home to a Redwood/Douglas Fir Forest.

We see plump yellow banana slugs, blooming Trillium a member of the lily family, and the tiny Calypso orchid during our five-mile hike.

We stop for a snack—courtesy of the Ritz which offers Club level guests the chance to pack “box lunches” from the bountiful breakfast offerings. (There are always cookies and penny candies too—perfect to take along on a hike)   

I’d forgotten how much good conversation happens as you hike along without any distractions (no cell service here)!   

There are the chances for all kinds of hikes here including the long Coastal walks (as I look out my hotel window, I see the crashing Pacific Ocean) we take the following morning.  

There is camping at Butano State Park but I’m glad we can repair to the Ritz. After a shower, we head up to the Club Lounge for snacks and drinks. It is crowded with families—kids watching the wedding taking place in the courtyard below.

The Pastorinos live nearby but checked in over night with their two kids ages 11 and 16 for a special treat. “It is so easy,” said Dana Pastorino. “We don’t even have to go to a restaurant…We have something to eat, come back in a few hours for something else…and then desert… it is a huge treat!

“It’s really convenient and the food is really good,” agreed 16-year-old Paige Pastorino.

“I can get what I want and I don’t have to wait,” added her 11-year-old brotherPeyton.  The best part, the two alleged, was no nagging from their parents to finish a restaurant meal. “And you don’t have to ask anyone for anything…you just go up and get it,” said Peyton.

We left the other families making dinner out of the bountiful offerings —everything from cheeses and crackers to seared scallops, salami, and more….to head to one of the area’s most popular restaurants Pasta Moon in Half Moon Bay, celebrating its 25^th anniversary and known for its farm-to-table philosophy. The restaurant has made it a priority from the beginning to seek and serve what’s in season from local farmers and has been at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement.

We love the ambiance –the brightly painted walls, the guitarist is playing in the lounge.

Asparagus are in season and we are served them Misto — gently fried in a light batter. Yum!   The Bruschetta is made with local greens and sundried tomato pesto.  My husband has Ravioli Butternut Squash —all of pasta is house made— and my daughter Eggplant Parmesan with fresh mozzarella and basil.   I opt for the nightly pasta special with more local veggies.

We end with a house speciality butterscotch pudding.

Yum!  A terrific way to end a terrific day.

I love it when the conversation at dinner is as good as the food!

With the baby goats at Vida Verde

Wow!

We’re less than an hour south of San Francisco but a world away—dramatic crashing ocean waves on one side; farms on the other.

We walk a trail at Pescadero State Marsh, watching scores of baby Herons in the trees in a rookery and spy a turtle in water. We laugh at the harbor seals sunning on the rocks at Pescadero State Beach.  

We stop at Harley’s Farm and Goat Dairy in tiny Pescadero to sample goat cheese (do we want pistachio and apricot, sundried tomato, chive?)… the best goat cheese I’ve ever tasted….  for our picnic  overlooking crashing waves at Bean Hollow State Beach . Dessert? Creamy fudge made with goat milk. (Come starting in May on Saturdays and check out the Coastside Farmer’s Market.)

There are many farms and wineries to visit here, the chance to whale-watch, kayak, even stay in a light house (HI-Pigeon Point Lighthouse, one of the tallest and most photographed lighthouses in the country is now a hostel!) … and simply enjoy nature at its best

We walk along Pebble Beach with its distinctive small pebbles instead of sand. Kids are exploring the tide pools. An Anemone! A Sea Star!  It’s chilly and we’re glad for the sunshine. It’s a perfect spring day

One reason for our visit: The chance to see  Vida Verde where my daughter Reggie works—a nonprofit organization that provides overnight environmental educational programs for inner city kids.  We ogle the newborn baby goats. So cute!

Our final destination is the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay that is one of the most spectacular hotel locations I’ve ever seen. The hotel is high on scenic bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean with two golf courses, tennis courts, walking trails to the beach and outdoor fire pits. (They leave us s’mores kits in our room.  Some rooms have their own private fire pits where guests can sit and take in the ocean views.)

I love being on the Club Level where we have access to the Club Lounge with complimentary breakfast, lunch, snacks, and, before dinner, delectable snacks (grilled artichokes? Shrimp? Cheeses?)

There are many families here who tell me the charge ($150 per room) is well worth it for the chance to relax while the kids grab something to eat without waiting in a restaurant. Kathleen and Don Tanaka are here with their two kids from Saratoga, CA for an overnight with friends and their kids. “We can relax and they have their own space,” she said, gesturing to her two kids peering out the window at the wedding taking place outside at the hotel.

“If you want anything it is always there,” said Makaela Tanaka, 12. The best part: The jars of penny candy that the kids can help themselves to “They pretty much have everything we want, especially the candy!”

“If you want something, you can just go get it,” added nine year old Mason Lafreniere, who is from Los Gatos, CA.

“We don’t have to worry about the kids here,” said Kathy Lafreniere. And on vacation, that counts for a lot

We learn this Coast with its hidden coves, thick fog and isolated canyons was ideal for rum runners from Canada and local moon shiners. Speakeasies were popular here then. Now there are farms that date back to the 1800s, miles of white beaches (here’s the place to horseback ride along the beach), Redwood forests and hiking an d biking trails along the bluffs and among the mountains.  There’s whale watching thru April, kayaking, fishing, even the chance to see how cheese is made.  And of course, the chance to sample plenty of farm-to-table good eats.

With four regions to explore – the North Coast, Half Moon Bay, the South Coast and the Redwood Region – we can’t fit it all in one weekend. We simply follow my daughter Reggie’s lead to some of her favorite places.

This area, we learn, is also home California’s first and only broad based ecotourism visitor program, through which more than 30 farmers, fisherman and business community members have come together to offer visitors hands-on activities and a chance to meet local residents.  To be included in the Ecotourism Map, all businesses had to agree to follow important environmental standards.

 We head to dinner at the popular Peruvian La Costanera, on a cliff overlooking the ocean that offers spectacular views as well as spectacular food (he restaurant is recommended in the Michelin Guide.) We feast on ceviche (there are over a dozen to choose from), empanadas (the best I’ve ever eaten), Causas (chilled whipped potatoes topped with mushrooms asparagus and avocado) and excellent seafood Paella.  Still, the managers tell me, the place welcomes many children and it is noisy enough that you don’t have to worry about disrupting anyone’s dinner.  

On to the Redwoods tomorrow! I’m glad we’ve got another sunny day.

Erica and Daniel Mueller loved to camp. Then they tried it with their two young kids.

“It took so much time to pack and unpack and we were spending all of our time doing that instead of relaxing,” said Erica Mueller, a Denver engineer.

“You could never clean up the tent,” added Daniel, also an engineer.

So the Denver couple bought a small RV.  I met them parked at the KOA campground outside of Ouray, Co. a couple of years ago next to a bubbling brook. Daniel Mueller was swinging in a hammock; Erica reading a magazine while four year old Sam and six year old Bella played.”

“I like having a place for everything,” said Erica. “It seemed like when we were tent camping we were always repacking and we could never seem to get organized.”

Many suggest that despite gas prices RVing is cheaper than other vacations but the Muellers aren’t so sure. That wasn’t why they did it anyway—it was a lifestyle thing, to get outdoors with the kids.

Just as important, parents say, are the instant friends they and their kids make at campgrounds. That never happens in a hotel. Nor do you have to corral kids in restaurants; they can run around all they like after they are done eating at a campground.

Even better, they won’t be glued to electronics or TV. “They have to interact,” said Janelle Maland, from Missouri camping with her parents, siblings kids and nieces and nephews—13 of them in all to celebrate her parents 50th anniversary in a combination of tents, RV and campers. They’d gathered from Iowa, Missouri and Colorado. “Full frontal togetherness,” joked another mom in the group.  

Other families I met insist there is no better family time than the trips in their camper “The close quarters bring you closer together,” one dad said.  “At home we are all going in separate directions.”

Forget tent camping with kids who have serious allergies and asthma, another mom said.   A stove and electricity are key.  And then there’s the luxury of a shower. “Sun showers with cold water didn’t do it for little kids,” she laughed. Bathrooms too. It’s no fun to stumble out of the tent in the middle of the night looking for the bathroom for kids who have to go “NOW!”

“True camping with kids was more work than it was worth,” one Mom confessed.  “This is a compromise. It gets the kids away from TV and the computer and outdoors with a lot less work for us.”

That’s what we’re finding on our RV trip with my cousins and their two young kids in a Winnebago. Everything is an adventure for  then seven year old Ethan and five year old Hannah—the bunks with curtains they can close (and individual DVD players), the table where they can sit while we drive—albeit buckled into a seatbelt—that they can get themselves a snack or go to the bathroom, the campgrounds where they can play on the playground or tool around on their scooters.

When everyone got hungry, we pulled over and had a picnic. “So much easier than taking them to a restaurant,” said their mom Jayme. Healthier than fast food and cheaper too.  That night, we made burgers and brats for the family traveling in tandem—some in tents at the same camp ground, some at a hotel in town. We ended the night with smores—making one after another until the chocolate ran out.

Call me a wus but when it was time for bed, I was glad for the AC.

Evies polar bear with tongue out

The new Discovery Channel series Frozen Planet is reminding me of the exceptional trip to the Artic Circle last summer.   We were smack in the middle of a bustling fast food court—for Arctic animals. 

Aboard the Lindblad Expedition’s National Geographic Explorer, in the Arctic, we were at the north entrance of Wood fjord in the part of northern Spitsbergen that’s covered with what’s called “fast ice.”  

Naturalist Ian Bullock explains to me that there is an abundance food here.  Thus the Eider ducks, the walrus—yes we see a walrus!–the Minke whales and polar bears. So far this trip—and we’re only into day five—we’ve seen eight polar bears.  Expedition Leader Lisa Trotter makes a notch with a knife on the Bridge for each Polar Bear sighting.  The most she’s seen are 47. Imagine—seeing 47 polar bears in their natural habitat!  

I love that these very accomplished naturalists are so available—standing with us on deck to answer our most arcane questions, leading walks, driving us on zodiac cruises, giving talks about what we’ve seen at the end of every day. 

It’s drizzly and cold but no one on the deck is moving—not when a bear and her cub can be seen on the ice in the distance –and much closer through the scope, binoculars or the long camera lens they’ve got. We’re the guests here so we speak in whispers so as not to disturb the bears. Even the announcement for lunch is made with a steward holding up a big sign rather than over the PA system.   

“With 24 hours of daylight, nothing is really scheduled except meals,” said Trotter.  

“It’s exciting to see people so excited,” says geologist and naturalist Jason Kelley. “Every week you see new things through their eyes.” 

That’s especially true with kids on board. This week there are only two. Memo to parents: Check how many children are sailing if that is important to your child.  Henry Douglas, 12, is a veteran of other Lindblad trips, and is disappointed there aren’t more kids his age but insists he is sorely disappointed there aren’t others to pal around with. The staff is being exceedingly accommodating but, said his mom Lisa, that can’t make up for a gang his own age. 

The kids, Trotter says, get excited by different things than the adults—the chance to jump in the freezing polar water, for example, the sight of hundreds of birds on a cliff or the chance to learn to drive the zodiac. 

Nine year old Evie Plunkett had never seen a glacier before this trip and was lucky enough to have a guide who landed the zodiac so people could walk and touch the glacier. 

“The ice was a lot dirtier than I thought,” she reported.  Kids on board are being treated to behind-the scenes aspects of ship life—like seeing how the videographer works daily, hauling upwards of 25 pounds of gear,  shooting video to make a 30-minute movie of our voyage that guests can purchase at the end. Trotter explained to Evie that she shoots as much as 45 minutes a day to get just five minutes of edited video. Evie, of course, was most excited to see herself and her grandpa in the day’s edited shots. I was most interested to learn that each week’s video is completely unique—not shots, not even of the wildlife, are used if not from that particular week’s voyage.  

Meanwhile, I’m taking full advantage of the photo instructors on board to learn more about the Canon camera I’ve borrowed from B&H Photo in New York. No question is too stupid thankfully. The onboard photography experts take the time to look at your images and tell you how you could have better composed them or not under-exposed them. They’ve got a whole area set up where you can download photos and they can help you edit your images. Yes, that tiny bear can look as if it’s just yards away. The more I learn, the more I realize I don’t know! 

The one thing this trip calls for is patience—lots of patience and much more to see wildlife than in other destinations like the Galapagos Islands or Antarctica where the wildlife is so much more abundant. 

“It takes some work to see the wildlife,” acknowledges expedition leader Lisa Trotter, who likens her job to being “an orchestra conductor and hope that by the end of trip, I’ve made a symphony for the guests.”   The fjords where we’re cruising today, we’re told, offer some of the most impressive scenery here, at the head is the Monacobreen glacier that was mapped by expeditions in 1906-07 organized by the Prince of Monaco. 

Life has slowed down on this ship with everything revolving around what we might see. There is only intermittent email so I find myself reaching for my Blackberry only to realize there is no point.  

We learn that two thirds of Svalbard Island is completely covered by snow and ice, though in the last few years the ice is retreating so fast that it left some beers trapped on land. 

There are some 2,300 to 2,600 polar bears in this region—it’s hard to believe how large they are—three times bigger than a lion! Their fur-covered paw can be up to 2 feet in diameter.  

Their life is about hunting for food, gaining weight and conserving energy.  

Unfortunately, I can totally relate, I think. I smile looking down at the giant footprints on the ice floe.    

Powder skiing at Deer Valley Utah

DAY 3 — Snowball fight anyone?

We are in the outdoor hot tub at the Montage Deer Valley while it dumps much needed snow on our heads and the mountains. Three little boys are having a snow ball fight on the other side of the hot tub.

For those who can afford luxe on the slopes, tt doesn’t get any better than the ski-in, ski-out Montage (with its own Compass Sports rental shop and ski valet where they buckle and unbuckle your boots) and Deer Valley, five minutes from Park City’s Main Street and just 40 minutes from Salt Lake City National Airport.

We’ve chosen Deer Valley, North America’s No. 1 ski resort (ranked by the readers of SKI Magazine 2008-2012) where the number of lift tickets are limited each day to prevent crowds and the Montage for a girls’ getaway that will combine some time on the slopes (though Deer Valley is known for its groomed terrain, with six peaks there is plenty of expert caches to discover) with some pampering (Montage has the largest spa in Utah) and good eats.

I’m glad for the opportunity to spend some just-us-girls– R&R with my daughter Reggie, who lives in San Francisco, and her college roommate Meghan McCloskey, just back from a two-year stint in the Peace Corps.   

I couldn’t have chosen better. The Montage has everything from great views (we watch kids playing in the snow outside our room window) to great places to cozy up by the fire (We loved the Vista Lounge with live music and the hotel’s own microbrew) and great eats (The farm-to-table Apex is awesome for breakfast –the coconut-crusted French toast was amazing as well as dinner where we indulged our inner foodies with Elk sausage, Utah Trout and Duck Breast as well as foraged mushrooms. (Truffle Mac and Cheese anyone?)

Downstairs, there’s Daley’s Pub & Rec a gourmet gastro-pub where you can bowl, play billiards, arcade games or watch basketball on TV while chowing down on your burger. There’s a sushi bar and a coffee bar named Buzz where you can taste the resort’s own honey. I’m sorry we didn’t have time for the resort’s sushi bar.  

The Paintbox offers organized kids’ activities should parents need a break—maybe at the gargantuan spa—as well as a lending library of books. No wonder this place is packed with families!  Everyone loves the big pooch who is the resort mascot.

I’m told the locale is just as wonderful in summer and fall when you can hike and mountain bike right outside the door—arranged by the concierges. I’m going to have to come back to see! Even better, prices are less than half in winter.

Just because a hotel is pricey doesn’t mean it will meet your needs but this one does—luxurious but casual, a staff that is service-oriented but welcoming rather than snooty. The girls love the gargantuan bathroom with its heated floors and the fireplace in our room and the oh-so-comfy beds. I love the little things—the loofah in the shower, the truffles left for us at bedtime, the free newspapers in the lobby, that kids , are invited to choose a special stuffed friend who is local to this area—a moose, raccoon or fox perhaps.  

Deer Valley has been known for its food and service since it opened in 1981 so it’s nice to feel pampered both inside the hotel and outside on the slopes. (You’ll get help with your gear as soon as you arrive). Sign on for a complimentary tour with a Mountain Host. My daughter Reggie joins an expert tour on a powder day and reports the guide took the group through glades and trees and areas she never would have found on her own. 

Nor do visitors realize how much history is right here under the slopes—literally—says Michael O’Malley, a local amateur historian and Deer Valley Mountain Host who imparts history at every opportunity on the ski slopes and special summer guided tours (check www.deervalley.com) did you know underneath Deer Valley and Park City Mountain Resort are some 1,000 miles of mining tunnels?)

Did I mention Deer Valley is one of just three ski resorts left in the country that doesn’t allow snowboarders? That seems to add to the ambiance. Every year, customers are polled and are asked whether they want snowboarding and the vast majority don’t.

There are plenty of options to stay at Deer Valley–a sumptuous condo, a one-bedroom suite complete with private hot tub at Stein Eriksen Lodge, with its newly renovated spa and emphasis on wellness (there are teen treatments if your getaway includes a teen). The St. Regis Deer Valley has great late season deals. It’s easy to see why Deer Valley is so popular with multi-generational families –the food, the service, the groomers and the kids’ programs, including infant daycare.

This season, Deer Valley even has a new children’s trail map complete with fun facts about local critters. Did you know a raccoon’s hands are so nimble they could unlace a shoe or that deer can move their ears in any direction without moving their heads?  There are fun games to do and some runs kids love like Bucky’s Humps or the Enchanted Forest.

I’ve long known that Deer Valley and Park City are great for families with its three mountains,  historic Main Street (don’t miss the newly renovated Park City Museum that tells the story of history here—from mining, to saloons to snow) and activities from the alpine coaster and zipline at Park City Mountain Resort to bowling at Jupiter Bowl.

I worried, though, that Deer Valley would prove too chi-chi for my wilderness-loving daughter. I shouldn’t have. The Montage proved the perfect respite where we could catch up (we live 3,000 miles apart!), relax and indulge ourselves a bit.

And there’s nothing wrong with that.

We wake up to more snow. The girls can’t wait to get out there.