Snuba in Puerto Rico

By Meghan McCloskey

“There are only three things you need to remember about Snuba,” said the bronzen instructor, “Breathe, never take off your oxygen mask and don’t swim off like a mermaid.” 

Easy enough, I think, considering one of the three rules is an instinct. ‘Snuba’ is not a typo, it’s one of the fastest growing aquatic activities that combines the best of snorkeling and scuba diving and allows you to explore coral reefs in the depths of the tropical seas without getting scuba diving certified. 

I jump, flippers first, off the back of the boat into the warm waters off the coast of Guánica, Puerto Rico.  Before I know it I’m fifteen feet underwater immersed in a delicate coral reef, face to face with iridescent fish in their natural habitat.  The only underwater communication I’ll be using is the ‘ok sign,’ which is Snuba for “this is awesome!”

Puerto Rico offers plenty of adrenaline inducing activities without the headache of complicated travel arrangements.  For families with a mix of daredevils and sunbathers, you can’t go wrong with this destination.  You don’t even need a passport to enter Puerto Rico, which is approximately a 4-hour flight from New York.  Despite its convenience, when you land in Puerto Rico and you stare out at the banana groves and the cerulean blue waters, you will feel as though your stresses are a world away.  

My destination is Copamarina Beach Resort in the small town of Guánica, a place where locals take pride in their land and go to great lengths to preserve the natural areas. Guánica is home to the largest dry forest in the world, a water-deprived ecosystem where the trees and cactus only grow one to five feet, yet sometimes to the age of 700 years.  Besides biologists from around the world, the free park attracts mountain bikers who could start at the top of the cliffside forest and bike down to Compamarina Resort to relax by the pool. Jose Luis at the information hut will point you towards a trail to meet your interests, whether it is a stroll to breathe in the fragrant fresh air or a quest to spot the rare Puerto Rican Whip-poor-will.

Copamarina hosts one of the best water sport centers for families on the island because there are options for all ages and skill levels.  There are opportunities for scuba diving, kayaking, paddle boarding and even HobiCat sailcraft.  Little ones can team up with parents and older siblings on a three-person kayak to embark on a trip to the forested Gilligan’s Island and even have a picnic on with white sandy beaches.  Not up for the challenge? Put up your feet and take in the views of Guanica at sunset from off shore aboard a pontoon boat.

I try my hand at paddleboarding, an ancient Hawaiian version of surfing, where the audacious rider balances on two feet on top of a surfboard and propels through the water with a giant oar.  Unfortunately, Poseidon is against me on the uncommonly windy day and the waves forbid me from reaching Gilligan’s Island.  I resign to shore, but an aromatherapy massage awaits me at the Bodyderm Spa of Copamarina.  As traditional Puerto Rican music soothes me, I treat my deserving muscles, feeling surprisingly accomplished for a vacation day.

Most visitors to Copamarina opt for the all-inclusive package, a real steal and the only package of its type on the island.  Parents will love daytime dining at the al fresco café, Las Palmas where you can try Puerto Rican fusion like mofongo (root vegetable-based dish) stuffed with grouper while kids can munch on comfort foods. Steal away for an evening and dine at the elegant Alexandra Restaurant, which offers innovative cuisine while being serenaded by the violin of a local music professor.  The filet mignon is a must-try!

If you want one more taste of Puerto Rico before heading home, stay at Courtyard Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort, found on a slice of pristine beach conveniently located a half a mile from the San Juan airport.  The energetic ones in the group can rent a boogie board or surfboard to tackle the waves.  Want to rest up before heading back to the real world?  No problem, you can recline on a spacious hammock and gaze out at the beach or hedge your bets at the in-house casino.

I head back to the airport, adrenaline still piping through me.  It’s a good thing that Puerto Rico is so accessible because I’ll be back soon for more adventure!

Where is the kale?

There’s plenty of spinach, arugula and lettuce but not the kale or the nasturtium the chef had wanted.

Jan Dane doesn’t miss a beat as she looks over the carrots and the radishes, talking to the farmers at the indoor Saturday farmer’s market in Stonington, CT, buying cheese from one, eggs and corn meal from another.

Dane, the mom of three, is a modern day Forager. That means it is her full time job to act as the liaison between local farmers and the chefs at the luxe 49-room Ocean House in Watch Hill, RI which is a designated Relais & Chateaux property with a focus on farm to table cuisine.

That’s why Dane also teaches classes at the hotel—whether how to shuck an oyster or introducing guests to local New England cheeses. “I loved it when a little boy tried his first oyster,” she said. She does classes on butter churning, ice cream making and grilling pizza too.

Of course it is healthier to eat fresh food. It is also important to support local farms and small business.  “Kids are very receptive,” to the message, she reports. Let’s hope the hotel gets more creative with its children’s menu!  

In summer, Dane says, she visits 5-7 farms a week—there are more than 700 food farms just in Rhode Island, she explains. She stops at large and small farmers markets too looking for what’s different (tiny radishes, a  cheese she hasn’t seen before from a local cheese maker…) “I have more than 49 farms on speed dial,” she says.

View of The Ocean House at Watch Hill RI from the beach

The chefs at Ocean House, she jokes, have “an Iron Chef mentality and are always up for a challenge.” And her finds may well end up on the menu. The evening we were there, we enjoyed a six course tasting menu (well-priced I thought at $85, with a wine pairing at $135). We had roasted beets with local Hannahbells cheese, delicious warm potato and leek soup , white Peking Duckling with kale (I guess the chef found it elsewhere)…and more. Throughout the year, there are special Farm + Vine and In the Kitchen dinners highlighting a particular cuisine.

On Sunday,  we enjoyed one of the best brunches I’ve ever had starting with oysters farmed down the road, an assortment of salads—Waldorf, cous cous, marinated artichokes, crepes(beef tenderloin or wild mushroom?) and then a yummy lobster hash sandwich amid other selections.  The atmosphere was lovely too-the dining room with its sweeping ocean views. No wonder so many people come here to celebrate a special occasion!  ($54, $25 for kids plus all the champagne you want.)

The original Ocean House, a grand yellow Victorian hotel overlooking a spectacular private beach with views of the Atlantic and Block Island, opened in 1868 and welcomed genteel guests who came for the entire summer for 135 years. The new structure was built in the footprint of the original and is just celebrating its second anniversary. I love the relaxed elegance, that there are artifacts from the original hotel throughout, the fanciful artwork and thoughtful touches (jars of goldfish and malted milk balls in our room and miniature scones to welcome us.)  There is even a children’s book by local author Ardith M Schneider about two mice, Mortimer and Max who watch the demolition of their old home in the old Ocean House and find a new home in the Watch Hill Chapel across the road. Mortimer Mouse and the New Ocean House.

Did I mention the fabulous OH! Spa with signature services inspired by the ocean and the harvest?  (Think locally harvested lavender, beach stone massage and a facial that uses peach butter and a buckwheat mask.) You won’t want to leave the relaxation room which overlooks the ocean.

The owners now are working to restore the Weekapaug Inn a few miles away that was originally built in 1899 in the community of Weekapaug, Rhode Island, with views of Quonochontaug Pond, and the Atlantic just beyond. 

This 27-room (and four two-bedroom suites) inn will that is expected to open in October with activities that will focus on the water (think sailing and kayaking), the outdoors (think bird watching with the resident naturalist) and bringing families together (think pizza made outside and curling up to read a story or play a game in the expansive public spaces.)

Dane agrees that with kids who are fussy eaters—including one of her own—it is easier to take the path of least resistance and serve them chicken fingers or burgers—the standard kids’ menu fare. Take them to visit a farmer’s market or a farm. (Websites like www.farmfreshri.org  in Rhode Island, www.localharvest.org  and www.farmstayus.com can help)

“You have to be positive about what you are eating and the kids will be responsive to that,” she suggests. Order menu items to share.

“When you are traveling,” Dane continued, “It seems like such an opportunity to get kids to try new foods….it is absolutely part of the adventure!”

In France recently with her children, even her picky eater tried sauces and quiche—a big step for a child who likes everything plain and white. Most restaurants in France didn’t offer children’s menus, Dane said–just smaller portions for smaller prices. “That makes so much sense,” she said.

Clearly.

Reggie at Kirkwood

By Reggie Yemma (photos by Dan Foldes)

After getting news of a spontaneous spring break from work in late March, my boyfriend, Dan Foldes, and I decided to spend our time off by retreating from the city (in our case, San Francisco) and head off on an adventure to the mountains. We both are avid skiers, and have been waiting for just the right time to head to Lake Tahoe this past winter, and now spring.

The California snowfall had not been very heavy all winter (many of our friends would return from the mountains saying that they had done more hiking than skiing most of December and January). However, March was the best month of snow in Tahoe. And, we were excited to do some good hard skiing in South Lake Tahoe at Heavenly and Kirkwood resorts, both of which we had never been.

Capitalizing on the incredible conditions, the majority of the Ski Lake Tahoe resorts have announced they will be extending their seasons with most aiming for the end of April and a few continuing operations into May. Heavenly and Kirkwood extended the season until April 29 and you can ski the rest of the season free if you buy a season pass for 2012-13.

After spending three early-morning hours driving from San Francisco to the beautiful snow-draped Sierra Nevadas, we were treated to a, well, “heavenly” view of blue skies, white mountains, and turquoise water as we ascended the Aerial Tram at Heavenly Ski Resort. We both agreed that this ski area had been aptly named. We looked out over the giant span of beautiful Lake Tahoe from the top of the mountain and watched the Heavenly ski patrol line up for a photo with all of their avalanche rescue dogs. It must have been one of the most breath-taking views I have ever had at a ski resort!

The mood amongst our fellow skiers on the Thursday when we arrived was quite pleasant and cheery.  Although Heavenly’s – and indeed California’s – snowfall this year has been decidedly light, Wednesday had seen a good accumulation of snow, so conditions were good for bounding around on the slopes.  Upon exploring the mountain on our first few runs, we were struck by Heavenly’s vast amount of terrain. Friendlier than normal lift operators were happy to tell us where the best runs on the mountain were.

Our exploration eventually led us to the remote Killebrew Canyon area, where we were treated to fresh tracks and a peaceful traverse out, overlooking the infinite Nevadan plain below. We spent most of the rest of the day skiing the challenging chutes of nearby Mott Canyon as well as the fun, moderate runs off the Dipper Express lift. I decided to warm up with a hot drink at East Peak Lodge while Dan did a few more runs, and was excited to have free refills of hot chocolate with endless amounts of whipped cream and mini-marshmallows!

Après ski, we took the gondola down to Heavenly Village and wound down around a warm outdoor fire pit at Restaurant Fire and Ice. We enjoyed their happy hour special with bloody Mary cocktails. We then decided there was no better way to spend our night than to see “The Hunger Games” at Heavenly Village Cinemas. A fan of the books, the movie did not disappoint!

We got to bed early to rest up for another big day at nearby Kirkwood. We had heard a lot about its extreme terrain, and were super excited to finally see for ourselves the steep slopes Kirkwood had to offer. We arrived right as the lifts opened and immediately headed up The Wall lift. The snow was soft and the slopes were steep as we challenged ourselves to ski fast and try some new routes. We especially enjoyed skiing down Eagle Bowl and Headwaters. From The Wall, we headed over to Sunrise lift for a few runs, and got a chance to spot some extreme snowboarders getting ready to take part in The North Face Masters of Snowboarding competition.

Fundraising for Kirkwood Ski Patrol

On our way back over to the Mountain Village Area, we ran into one of the happiest dogs in the world, a member of the Kirkwood Ski Patrol! We spent the rest of the afternoon skiing on the Cornice Express Lift, finding stashes of fresh snow, tight cliff tunnels to squeeze to, and mini-cornices to jump off of.

Not wanting to leave, we decided it was time to hit the road back to San Francisco. But, we cannot wait to come back next season to explore the extreme terrain of this mountain way more. Here’s to some late season snow, and a beautiful spring break in Lake Tahoe!

Normally I dread long flights but not this time.

I’m in my Virgin America  extra legroom seat with no one in front of me and plenty of room to stretch on this flight from San Francisco to New York.

I just finished watching a movie (complimentary() and nibbling on an artisanal cheese plate (complimentary). When I want some water, I just order it from the touch screen and it’s brought to my seat quickly.

For once the five-hour plus flight doesn’t seem interminable. Many airlines, Jet Blue and Delta among them, now offer extra legroom seats that I pay extra for on long-haul flights. (It’s much easier on my bad knee.) But none offer as much service, not to mention free eats, as does Virgin America. (Prices vary depending on flights.)

Wherever you sit on the plane, there’s a lot to make flying easier on Virgin America—that you can plug in your laptop at your seat, order food and drinks on your touch screen in front of you (We all know kids are never hungry when food is offered on a plane.) There’s complimentary TV and plenty of other entertainment (including a special section for kids with movies, games, music and parental controls.) Kids can order their own special snack boxes l (think peanut butter crackers, goldfish,, fruit by the foot and special dolphin ear buds and a puzzle) as well as  PB&J  and Turkey sandwiches .

I’m having so much fun deciding what to watch… and what to eat (a Thai veggie wrap, chocolate chip cookies…chopped salad) that I’m actually surprised to learn we’re  only 45 minutes from JFK.

That’s got to be a first.

Desserts at the Sunday brunch Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay

Sushi…dim sum…corn bisque, chilled mint pea soup… Peking Duck…roast beef, ham..Thai curry…freshly shucked oysters and shrimp

I don’t know where to start.

We are at the Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay’s Sunday Brunch that is so popular in the Bay area that people drive an hour or more to indulge.

There are some 300 items to choose from and not a chicken finger in sight, says Executive Chef  Xavier Salomon. Chef Salomon  says at the brunch  he doesn’t do “kids food”  and parents rarely ask for it—not when kids can eat delectable dim sum, mashed potatoes, roast beef, veggies in season, mini quiches.. “And of course they go crazy for the deserts,” he says with a smile—nutella crepes,  apple, blackberry and peach marshmallows, chocolate mousse, flan, tiny tarts , fresh berries and cream, miniature cakes too pretty to eat (chocolate raspberry dome anyone?)

Perhaps what makes this brunch different than those at most hotels is that much of the food is locally sourced—all the fruits, vegetables, the chicken, the beef, the ham, the lamb.  Chef Salomon says he’s most proud that the food at the brunch is so fresh coming from a dozen local farms and purveyors with 11 chefs cooking, slicing and serving  as we eat—shucking oysters, carving beef, cutting chicken—so that nothing sits in chafing dishes.

The day we visited was  Easter Sunday with  little girls kids dressed in   brightly colored dresses, boys in dress shirts and grownups sporting pink and purple bunny ears. There was an Easter Egg hunt going on outside and a visiting petting zoo with baby goats, chicks and bunnies. To whet our appetite for the brunch, we took a long walk along the Coastal Trail that is popular with dog owners and visitors with high cliffs, crashing surf, sea birds…

This is one of the best brunches I’ve ever experienced and I’ve seen a lot of them—likely because of the freshness of everything that is served. This is an area after also known for its farms and the variety of what is served from the Thai chicken curry to the  seared miniature lamb chops  and lavender honey glazed ham to Dungeness crab and baby carrots.

You’ve got to come hungry and plan to stay awhile which we do, taking in the spectacular  Pacific Ocean views just outside.

That goes for kids too. “Parents want the kids to experience  different foods,” the chef says.   Out of maybe 1000 covers on a Sunday, he says, he might have only two requests for chicken fingers or fries which he will of course bring. That’s not the same for room service, he adds, when kids’ items are far better sellers than the petite filet or broiled chicken breast that is on the kids’ menu.

“I grew up in France,” the Chef says.”We never ate all of this fried food like they do here!”  And with food like this, there’s no need to. Pass the sushi.

Reggie examines a bananna slug in Redwood grove

The Giant Redwoods, soaring hundreds of feet in the air, were amazing. But what was even better was the conversations with my daughter Reggie as we hiked through Butano State Park in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is her turf—she works near here at Vida Verde, a nonprofit organization that provides environmental programs for inner city kids–and she knows the area well. But we don’t get to see her often and I’m glad for the opportunity to catch up. That we’re in such a beautiful spot is a bonus.

We were midway between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay,  where we are staying at the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay  and only a little more than an hour from San Francisco .

Besides the giant redwoods, Butano is known for its bio-diversity (Butano is thought to be named after a drinking cup from a bull horn).  We walk past groves of Redwood “families” some with their innards carved out as the result of forest fires. We learn that Redwoods get about 30 per cent of their moisture from fog but as the climate warms, less fog threatens their survival. Butano State Park—one of the least known of the California parks—is home to a Redwood/Douglas Fir Forest.

We see plump yellow banana slugs, blooming Trillium a member of the lily family, and the tiny Calypso orchid during our five-mile hike.

We stop for a snack—courtesy of the Ritz which offers Club level guests the chance to pack “box lunches” from the bountiful breakfast offerings. (There are always cookies and penny candies too—perfect to take along on a hike)   

I’d forgotten how much good conversation happens as you hike along without any distractions (no cell service here)!   

There are the chances for all kinds of hikes here including the long Coastal walks (as I look out my hotel window, I see the crashing Pacific Ocean) we take the following morning.  

There is camping at Butano State Park but I’m glad we can repair to the Ritz. After a shower, we head up to the Club Lounge for snacks and drinks. It is crowded with families—kids watching the wedding taking place in the courtyard below.

The Pastorinos live nearby but checked in over night with their two kids ages 11 and 16 for a special treat. “It is so easy,” said Dana Pastorino. “We don’t even have to go to a restaurant…We have something to eat, come back in a few hours for something else…and then desert… it is a huge treat!

“It’s really convenient and the food is really good,” agreed 16-year-old Paige Pastorino.

“I can get what I want and I don’t have to wait,” added her 11-year-old brotherPeyton.  The best part, the two alleged, was no nagging from their parents to finish a restaurant meal. “And you don’t have to ask anyone for anything…you just go up and get it,” said Peyton.

We left the other families making dinner out of the bountiful offerings —everything from cheeses and crackers to seared scallops, salami, and more….to head to one of the area’s most popular restaurants Pasta Moon in Half Moon Bay, celebrating its 25^th anniversary and known for its farm-to-table philosophy. The restaurant has made it a priority from the beginning to seek and serve what’s in season from local farmers and has been at the forefront of the farm-to-table movement.

We love the ambiance –the brightly painted walls, the guitarist is playing in the lounge.

Asparagus are in season and we are served them Misto — gently fried in a light batter. Yum!   The Bruschetta is made with local greens and sundried tomato pesto.  My husband has Ravioli Butternut Squash —all of pasta is house made— and my daughter Eggplant Parmesan with fresh mozzarella and basil.   I opt for the nightly pasta special with more local veggies.

We end with a house speciality butterscotch pudding.

Yum!  A terrific way to end a terrific day.

I love it when the conversation at dinner is as good as the food!

With the baby goats at Vida Verde

Wow!

We’re less than an hour south of San Francisco but a world away—dramatic crashing ocean waves on one side; farms on the other.

We walk a trail at Pescadero State Marsh, watching scores of baby Herons in the trees in a rookery and spy a turtle in water. We laugh at the harbor seals sunning on the rocks at Pescadero State Beach.  

We stop at Harley’s Farm and Goat Dairy in tiny Pescadero to sample goat cheese (do we want pistachio and apricot, sundried tomato, chive?)… the best goat cheese I’ve ever tasted….  for our picnic  overlooking crashing waves at Bean Hollow State Beach . Dessert? Creamy fudge made with goat milk. (Come starting in May on Saturdays and check out the Coastside Farmer’s Market.)

There are many farms and wineries to visit here, the chance to whale-watch, kayak, even stay in a light house (HI-Pigeon Point Lighthouse, one of the tallest and most photographed lighthouses in the country is now a hostel!) … and simply enjoy nature at its best

We walk along Pebble Beach with its distinctive small pebbles instead of sand. Kids are exploring the tide pools. An Anemone! A Sea Star!  It’s chilly and we’re glad for the sunshine. It’s a perfect spring day

One reason for our visit: The chance to see  Vida Verde where my daughter Reggie works—a nonprofit organization that provides overnight environmental educational programs for inner city kids.  We ogle the newborn baby goats. So cute!

Our final destination is the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay that is one of the most spectacular hotel locations I’ve ever seen. The hotel is high on scenic bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean with two golf courses, tennis courts, walking trails to the beach and outdoor fire pits. (They leave us s’mores kits in our room.  Some rooms have their own private fire pits where guests can sit and take in the ocean views.)

I love being on the Club Level where we have access to the Club Lounge with complimentary breakfast, lunch, snacks, and, before dinner, delectable snacks (grilled artichokes? Shrimp? Cheeses?)

There are many families here who tell me the charge ($150 per room) is well worth it for the chance to relax while the kids grab something to eat without waiting in a restaurant. Kathleen and Don Tanaka are here with their two kids from Saratoga, CA for an overnight with friends and their kids. “We can relax and they have their own space,” she said, gesturing to her two kids peering out the window at the wedding taking place outside at the hotel.

“If you want anything it is always there,” said Makaela Tanaka, 12. The best part: The jars of penny candy that the kids can help themselves to “They pretty much have everything we want, especially the candy!”

“If you want something, you can just go get it,” added nine year old Mason Lafreniere, who is from Los Gatos, CA.

“We don’t have to worry about the kids here,” said Kathy Lafreniere. And on vacation, that counts for a lot

We learn this Coast with its hidden coves, thick fog and isolated canyons was ideal for rum runners from Canada and local moon shiners. Speakeasies were popular here then. Now there are farms that date back to the 1800s, miles of white beaches (here’s the place to horseback ride along the beach), Redwood forests and hiking an d biking trails along the bluffs and among the mountains.  There’s whale watching thru April, kayaking, fishing, even the chance to see how cheese is made.  And of course, the chance to sample plenty of farm-to-table good eats.

With four regions to explore – the North Coast, Half Moon Bay, the South Coast and the Redwood Region – we can’t fit it all in one weekend. We simply follow my daughter Reggie’s lead to some of her favorite places.

This area, we learn, is also home California’s first and only broad based ecotourism visitor program, through which more than 30 farmers, fisherman and business community members have come together to offer visitors hands-on activities and a chance to meet local residents.  To be included in the Ecotourism Map, all businesses had to agree to follow important environmental standards.

 We head to dinner at the popular Peruvian La Costanera, on a cliff overlooking the ocean that offers spectacular views as well as spectacular food (he restaurant is recommended in the Michelin Guide.) We feast on ceviche (there are over a dozen to choose from), empanadas (the best I’ve ever eaten), Causas (chilled whipped potatoes topped with mushrooms asparagus and avocado) and excellent seafood Paella.  Still, the managers tell me, the place welcomes many children and it is noisy enough that you don’t have to worry about disrupting anyone’s dinner.  

On to the Redwoods tomorrow! I’m glad we’ve got another sunny day.

Peace Pagoda in Japantown San Francisco

Everyone knows San Francisco’s bustling, busy Chinatown, the largest outside of Asia.

But Japantown?  “People just come here to eat,” says Dawn Shalhoup, who represents Japantown and took us on a walking tour. They don’t realize how much there is to do!”

Come the weekends of April 14 and 21 for the 45^th annual Cherry Blossom Festival spotlighting traditional customs and culture that are part of the rich heritage of Japanese Americans. As part of the commemoration of the March 11th disaster in Japan, the San Francisco Japantown community and the Friends of the Urban Forest recently planted 16 new cherry trees with the idea that another 30 trees will be planted later this summer.  More than 50 cherry trees were planted just over a year ago.

The neighborhood that is now Japantown (Nihonmachi) is approximately one mile west of Union Square and is part of San Francisco’s Western Addition, a subdivision that came into being with the writing of the Van Ness Ordinance in 1855.  Take the self-guided  San Francisco Japantown History Walk along an approximately 10-block route through the heart of Japantown. Download the Map: Page 1 and Page 2

Sign on for a culinary tour with local Foodie Lisa Rogovin and her company, Edible Excursions along a flavorful path of seven stops including century-old, family-owned businesses, artisan shops and restaurants.

The main thoroughfare is Post Street, between Fillmore Street (to the west) and Laguna Street (to the east). The Japantown neighborhood is generally considered to be bordered on the north by Bush or Pine Street, and on the south by Geary Boulevard. Its focal point is the Japan Center (opened in 1968),^] the site of three Japanese-oriented shopping centers and the Peace Pagoda.

 The first Japanese arrived in San Francisco — or Soko as they called it — in the early 1860s. For the most part, they lived in Chinatown and in neighborhoods south of Market Street.  It was not until the devastating 1906 earthquake and fire drove many of them from their homes that they began moving to the Western Addition. As they settled here, they built churches and shrines and opened typically Japanese shops and restaurants. The neighborhood took on a very Japanese character and before long became a miniature Ginza known as Nihonmachi, or Japantown. It is here that the foundations of San Francisco’s Japanese American community took root.

During World War II, the Japanese Americans in San Francisco and in other West Coast communities were uprooted and interned in what was one of the great tragedies of the War — and a most regrettable episode in our country’s history. After the war, many Japanese American residents returned to the city. Today, nearly 12,000 Japanese Americans live in San Francisco and approximately 80,000 live in the greater Bay Area and this area has been refurbished, though stores restaurants and business remain in the hands of families who have been here for generations.

Another hidden gem is Hotel Tomo that is now run by the Joie de Vivre group and boasts colorful furniture, a wall-sized mural in every room and  even a Mecha suite with a six-foot LED screen outfitted with Xbox Play Station 3—ideal for a tween’s birthday party as was happening later the day we visited. Rooms start under $150

Certainly there’s plenty to eat—and the chance to try new foods. How about a sweet potato latte (surprisingly delicious) at yakinQ café  which is actually Korean where Red Bean shaved ice and pumpkin lattes  are also popular.

We ate Hijiki which is rice, eggplant or spicy shrimp or pickled plum wrapped in seaweed with rice at the New People building, where kids will also like the quirky offerings at the shop (maybe a dress for their kitty?)

We stop for Mochi—a pressed rice pastry with red bean paste that has a jello-like consistency at Benkyodo that has been here since 1906 and is one of the last Mochi manufacturers in the United States.   We snack on Okonomyaki—a kind of egg and beef pie (kids will love because the fish flakes they sprinkle on top seem to wave)—at Izumiya in Japan Center

Like Origami? Stop in at Paper Tree, a store that has been here more than 100 years where you can see all varieties of Origami—a sea horse, an orangutan, a cow—even the Golden Gate Bridge in the window.

Fairmont chef jW Foster on rooftop garden in San Francisco

DAY One — Honey anyone?

If you’re staying with your kids at the iconic Fairmont San Francisco atop Nob Hill  you can show them that the honey in their salad dressing or muffins or tea comes from the bees who live right here in beehives in the hotel’s culinary garden. (The kids can see them flying around the lavender through the glass.)

The Fairmont San Francisco’s Executive Chef  jW Foster installed the beehives in the hotel’s 1,000-square foot culinary garden to help support the bee population which has dropped 90 per cent since the 1980s.  (Learn more with the “Chef’s Apprentice” package)

The garden, right smack in the middle of some of San Francisco’s priciest real estate, boasts lemons, kumquats, edible flowers, all varieties of herbs.  It was one of the first in the city.

Chef Foster has made a great effort since he arrived two years ago to improve and upgrade kids’ menus as well as adults—a Fairmont-wide initiative but especially notable here at this historic hotel that was Fairmont’s first. (Fair was for James Graham Fair whose daughters inherited the property from their father and built the hotel and Mont because the hotel is at the top of the city’s famous Nob Hill.)

The Fairmont was set to open April 18, 1906—the day of the Great Earthquake. It survived but the interior was destroyed by the fires that ravaged the city afterward. The hotel opened exactly a year after the earthquake and has been a San Francisco icon ever since. (Tell your daughters: The interior was designed by a young woman, Julia Morgan, the first female graduate of Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris.)

There  is much history here—from the Cirque Room, the art deco lounge that was the first bar to open in San Francisco to celebrate the end of Prohibition, to the fact that the U.N Charter was drafted here.  Tony Bennett sang “I Left My Heart in San Francisco” for the first time here in December 1961.

Kids will love the huge ornate lobby and the recently uncovered domes in the Laurel Court lounge and restaurant. The morning we’re here, a half dozen are busy playing cards as their parents finish breakfast.

It is worth noting that though this is one of the most exclusive and historic hotels in San Francisco, nearly every table at the Laurel Court at breakfast had kids at the table. And wherever you go in San Francisco, there are opportunities to teach kids about food.  

Whether for breakfast or dinner, Chef Foster notes that today’s sophisticated traveling kids don’t want a steady diet of chicken fingers or mac and cheese, though that remains on the menu.  “They order pate and quinoa,“ he said.

He noted that the gluten-free items on the menu have become huge sellers for children as well as adults—everything from gluten-free pizza to gluten-free muffins. There are vegan options as well. As well as hearth healthy and low fat

“Kids palates are definitely changing,” he said, That is why the hotel will also allow parents to order smaller portions of regular menu items for kids as well

Meats and vegetables come from local purveyors; seafood is sustainably caught, according to directives from the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Even the offerings at Tonga Room—popular since 1945 and recently restored with a $1 million renovation—has had its kids menus updated with everything from a Keiki platter with BBQ pork ribs, spring rolls and chicken satay to Little chow chow (wok flashed vegetables and noodles and grilled teriyaki chicken0. Adult menus are lighter too, Chef Foster said, with simpler sauces and less sodium.

Upstairs at Laurel Court kids might have  whole wheat  pancakes (chocolate chips optional) and a fresh smoothie with house honey for breakfast, organic weeds (salad) and everything from local butternut squash and apple bisque to stir fried brown rice with pineapple tofu, sesame rice noodle salad, grilled chicken or salmon with brown rice—all gluten free as well as healthy. Food is as locally sourced as possible,  the chefs working directly with local farmers and ranchers to create a an authentically local taste of the region—from house-made pate to  duck breast  to San Francisco’s famous fish stew Cioppino.

We loved the famous wrap-around pastoral murals.

What a great spot for dinner!  We certainly thought so.  More Cioippino, please.

Disney Fantasy at night (photo by Eva Weinberg)

By Dana Weinberg (mother of Eva and Eileen’s traveling companion in Orlando last month)

Question: How do you make two high school senior girls happy AND get them to spend time with you?

Answer: Take them on a trip where they have a lot of freedom to wander on their own, have easy access to a lot of good food, are able to ride countless roller coasters, with time still left for the all-important laying out in the sun.

My trip to Orlando with Eva (my daughter) and Cam (her friend) fit the bill.  Our plans to sail on the inaugural cruise of Disney’s Fantasy were book ended on either side by a few days in the Disney Parks and at Universal Studios.  Arrangements had been made for us to stay in a magnificent suite on the concierge floor at Disney’s Contemporary Resort.  We all took advantage of the open, airy concierge lounge where food and snacks were always available, especially since we had scheduled late dinners (and the girls were always hungry before dinner). As we gave Eva and Cam the green light to manage their own schedule during the day, dinner became the glue that brought us together to discuss what we’d done, allowing us to share some quality time. It didn’t hurt that all of us like interesting restaurants and good food.  We shared dishes, talked about what we liked and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Recommended:  Eat in restaurants outside of the parks….Sushi and appetizers at the California Grill, stuffed lobster at Fulton’s Crab House, anything at Blue Zoo, but especially the tuna tartar (the best we tasted and we tasted quite a few versions!) with the frozen dried corn on the side (cold and crunchy)…oh, and also their frozen cheesy popcorn which made us laugh out loud as we popped each morsel into our mouths!

Question: If you only have a limited amount of time to spend in the Disney Parks and there are specific attractions that you absolutely must see, how do you fit it all in?

Answer: Use Disney’s VIP Tour Service. 

Cam and Eva spent the entire morning with us (a pleasure!) and our VIP tour guide whisked us to the front of the line for all the new and hard-to-get-into attractions. No waiting for the monorail or the bus to get from park to park…transportation by private car is so much faster.  Not interested in seeing the “royal hotel rooms” that were on the adult agenda for the afternoon, the girls set off on their own to explore Epcot’s various countries and shops.  I was confident that Eva and Cam would be safe, have a great time and would show up for snacks on the concierge floor and for dinner. Yes, yes, yes and yes.

Recommended: Epcot…the girls’ favorite park, and mine, too.  Epcot was hosting a garden show with amazing topiaries of the Disney characters and beautiful floral installations along the banks of the canals…sunning at the hotel’s beach or one of its pools….fireworks everywhere!

Question: What can one say about the Disney Fantasy?

Answer: Beautiful! Entertaining! An easy vacation!

We boarded the Fantasy and the girls immediately ditched us to explore the ship and its offerings, and to work on their suntans. Why not let them continue to enjoy their freedom.  After all, where could they go? If we really needed to find each other, the portable wave phones provided in each stateroom would allow us to communicate, assuming that Eva or Cam remembered to take a phone with them. Throughout the 3 day cruise our paths would cross…on the pool decks, at character appearances, to say “hello” at lunchtime, at the evening shows, at the quiet beach on Disney’s private island where Eva and Cam showed up so I could take her picture, etc… and at dinner. 

Every night since we had left Connecticut, Eva and Cam had been so tired from their daily activities that they were generally asleep by midnight. It never occurred to me that our last night on the Fantasy would be any different…but it was.  Returning late to my stateroom after an exquisite meal at Remy followed by a movie, I found Eileen asleep and in the girls’ room….their unpacked clothes, both wave phones and no Eva or Cam. 

I laughed at myself as all my nonchalance about freedom on the ship went out the window. I knew they were fine but I just wanted them “home”. Don’t all parents feel that sense of reassurance when their children are tucked safely in to bed?  I couldn’t sleep and the minutes ticked by…1:30, 2:00, 2:30… I admit that I did call Guest Services around 3:00 and they said they would look for Eva and Cam. When the girls showed up at 3:15, they said they had been hanging out in the main lobby with some other teens and had come back to the room because they were tired.  Miraculously, they were dressed, packed and breakfasted for our early morning departure from the ship.

Recommended: Dinner at Animator’s Palate where each diner is given a template of a person to fill in. The templates are then collected, animated and projected at the end of dinner to everyone’s delight….dinner at Remy: delicious food exquisitely presented (we did not take Eva and Cam).

About all those roller coasters…Eva and Cam rode MANY of them at Universal Studios. I rode none. We had a tour guide our first day which offered us quick-access to Harry Potter World and other popular attractions. Fading from little sleep the night before, Eva, Cam and I went back to our hotel to rally for an early evening Blue Man Group show which we all thoroughly enjoyed. We really appreciated the smaller scale of the Universal Studios parks. Of course, it was back in to the park the next morning for Eva and Cam to ride yet more roller coasters, and then back to the hotel to relax by one of the hotel’s pool before heading for the airport to fly home.