Travel Diary

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Disney’s private island and our last night on the cruise

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Ethan and his dad check out one of the stingrays at Castaway Cay(click image to enlarge)
LAST DAY (day seven) – Talk about a perfect vacation day.

The sky is blue, the water clear turquoise. We step off the Disney Wonder onto kids vacation heaven—a great big beach, a play structure anchored in the water. Machines dispensing all the ice cream and pop parents will let the kids have (as well as fresh fruit). There’s beach volley ball, big inner tubes, snorkeling gear. Did I mention Disney characters making appearances periodically through the day?

Welcome to Castaway Cay, Disney’s private island—as private as an island can be with 2,700 passengers including more than 1,000 kids laughing and playing and splashing.  Five year old Ethan and his three hear old sisters Hannah Sitzman are entranced by the glass bottom boat ride to “see the fishies.” Again the Disney difference: the guide lifts the little ones down just on top of the glass so they can get up close and personal with the fish without getting wet. Each child gets a chance to feed the fish some oatmeal.

“It’s really nice—less crowded than I expected,” said Stacey Crystal, sailing with two 13 year olds from Tulsa, OK.

Maybe that’s because the crowds were so spread out. There was an adult-only beach (cabana massage anyone?), one for the crew, one just for teens and a shaded area where the organized kids’ programming continued.  There’s water play for the littlest ones, beach volleyball, even a “whale Dig” where kids looked for “fossils” in the sand. Parents, like my cousins Mike and Jayme Sitzman, could get an hour to themselves (or longer) knowing the kids were happily occupied before getting them for some major sand castle building (Ever see a giant Mickey out of sand?) and tube play in the water.

“The perfect island paradise,” said Joe Tenczar, who was cruising from Orlando with his wife and young son.

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Monday, May 12, 2008

Some beach time, some spa time

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Ethan and Hannah admire the “sand Mickey” they built with the help of their dad(click image to enlarge)
DAY SIX—While the ship is in Nassau, we take the chance to check out the newly renovated Sheraton Cable Beach Resort. It’s great for kids—a beautiful beach, three pools and rooms that open onto the pool.

Kirkwood McKenzie, the resort’s “Director of Fun,” tells me they are trying to do something new—making sure there are plenty of things for families to do together, “like a cruise ship on land” with games around the pool, beach volleyball, hoops, etc… but with a Bahamian twist. “We want to encourage the Bahamian culture,” McKenzie says.  There will be storytelling, people making native jewelry and weaving palms, making kites.  Local kids will be on hand to teach dancing to visiting kids. “We want them to leave having had a native experience.”

Of course there is hair braiding and every variety of water sports too.  It’s a nice, laid back atmosphere for families. There is also a cheery kids club where parents can leave the kids in the care of Shaneka Musgrove and Donita Knowles while they get a little adult time. Our two youngsters loved making placemats that they brought home with us.

When we get back on board the ship, the kids are ready for some cartoons—and a nap—while my cousin Jayme and I head to the spa for a much needed respite.  I get my massage in a room overlooking the ocean, hearing the waves lap and the birds chirp. Afterward, I head into the “rain forest” environment for some time in the Eucalyptus steam rom. Even on a ship with more than 1,000 kids, the spa is always booked (you can even get a massage on Disney’s private island).  Along with taking terrific care of the kids, the ship does a good time taking care of the parents too.

“To me, this is it when you are talking about cruising with kids,” said Carol Gallo, a travel agent from Massachusetts who has cruised Disney with her kids several times. “It really works.”

“The kids love this,” said Kalen Walker, the mother of four who was cruising with her five and seven year olds while her mother in law was ensconced at Walt Disney World with the two younger ones. “I’m so relaxed—even watching them in the pool.” A first time Disney cruiser, she added that the kids really love the ease of cruising.  “The ship, looking at the ocean, seeing the characters, eating what they want. They are at the fruit stand every 20 minutes and they ate filet mignon and scallops for dinner!  This really works!”

“The pool is the biggest thing,” added Tim Muhs, who is from North Carolina and cruising with his wife and six and eight year olds for the first time. “I like that there are different programs for different age kids,” he added. There’s so much to do! In fact, the Muhs didn’t even get off the boat and were perfectly happy.  And though Michelle Muhs tends to get motion sick—she was fine—as is my cousin Jayme.  “You can really relax on the boat,” she said, no small thing for a mom traveling with young kids.

The Walt Disney Theater is packed for Toy Story The Musical —the first time this Disney-Pixar film has been adapted for the stage.  It is Broadway quality, as the mesmerized kids and their parents would agree. The show, as does the film, explores the meaning of friendship as toys become friends.  There are larger than life inflatable characters including a nearly nine foot tall version of Rex the dinosaur and a four foot round Ham the piggybank. It is one of the largest productions ever developed for a cruise ship and it’s clearly a success.

This isn’t the only stage show, though—The kids also loved The Golden Mickeys .  It’s nice to have Broadway-quality entertainment appropriate for young kids that you can just walk into—no lines, no tickets, no paying for parking!

Afterward, there are fireworks on deck and a big pirate party—everyone got a pirate bandana at dinner and were sporting them on their heads all over the ship.  But our gang had a bit too much sun and beach today—they’re beat. We return to our cabins to see that our steward, Pacifer, had made sure all of Ethan and Hannah’s animals were hanging from the bunk bed with towel monkey having their own n party. The kids were thrilled—and that’s what it’s about after all.

Next:  The last day of the cruise, a perfect vacation day

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Friday, May 09, 2008

Kid Nirvana on the Disney Cruise

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The room steward always leaves a towel fashioned into an animal—a hit with the little kids (click image to enlarge)
DAY FIVE—These little kids must be dreaming.

It’s well past their bedtime but they’re not in bed. Instead, they’re dressed to the nines (the girls anyway, in princess get-up, complete with sparkly shoes and Minnie Mouse dresses) waiting in line to get Cinderella and Jack Sparrow’s autograph. They’re at the Oceaneer lab climbing up to the top of the “pirate” ship so they can slide down. They’re on computers playing the latest video games.  They’re sitting in “clam” shells watching Finding Nemo. They’re in the theater mesmerized by a first-rate live show complete with you guessed it—Mickey and Minnie. The waiters at dinner know their names and they could get anything they wanted on the menu without promising to finish every last bite of that expensive dish (a side of salmon with my chicken fingers please!)

Did I mention when they finally get back to their room, their always-smiling stewards have left animals shaped out of towels. For my cousins, five year old Ethan Sitzman and his three year old sister Hannah, there was a towel elephant surrounded by their stuffed animals. “They were having a party,” Ethan said.
It’s all the Disney difference, says youth activities manager Shannon Quinn ll. That means that all of the 50+ youth staff on this ship have college degrees as well as two years experience working with kids. They talk at least eight languages “and if we don’t speak it, we’ll find someone on the staff who can help,” Shannon says.

My little cousins certainly think they’ve reached vacation heaven. They and their parents are, like many on this ship, first time cruisers.  It is, after all, a three-night cruise, ideal for those who want to see if cruising is right for their family.

On this ship, there are 1,034 kids—nearly 700 under seven years-old, including more than 100 babies and toddlers being cared for (at an extra charge) in the well-equipped Toddler’s Nursery. Consider that there are 1,653 adults and another 981 crew (from 55 countries) That means that nearly half the passengers are children.

There are different areas for the different aged kids better equipped than many schools … computers dress up (want to be a pirate or a princess?), books, games, toys and, most important, the most energetic staff I’ve ever seen.  But what if a young child has separation issues?  Before paging the parent (every family is given a pager so they can be quickly reached) the staff will do all they can to engage the kids and, Quinn says. Most of the time it works.
No worries about sanitation here.  Not only is everything cleaned at night but “We clean all the time,” Quinn says.  “Because of maritime law we’re even stricter than a day care center.”

Like Disney World, there is so much to do it’s impossible to do it all. Do you want to make kites, watch a new Disney movie, shoot some hoops, play pirate trivia, splash in the pool that’s shaped like Mickey Mouse’s head, play ping pong?

This ship isn’t only about the kids, though. There is an entire deck designated for parents as well as an adult pool and spa. That’s why the children’s programming runs until midnight.  They’ll feed the kids lunch and dinner too.  There are plenty of adult activities to (martini tasting or Pilates anyone?  Maybe this is vacation nirvana for parents of young kids too…are they dreaming too?

NEXT:  Ashore in the Bahamas

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Thursday, May 08, 2008

Two Parks in one day at Universal

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Three year old Hannah Sitzman rides the merry-go-round at Seussland (click image to enlarge)
DAY FOUR—I love being a VIP—for a day anyway.

We’ve signed on for a VIP Tour at Universal Studios in Orlando, which means our very informed guide Karyn Shelton (who has almost finished a doctorate in music) cannot only answer all of our questions, but structure our visit around five year old Ethan and three year old Hannah, at the same time making sure their parents can ride all the coasters (and Universal has great ones) that they wish. Did I mention we get to cut the lines? (Check http://www.universalorlando.com for different tour options.)

The kids, of course, are thrilled by the characters and we see Woody Woodpecker and Curious George almost as soon as we enter the park. Universal used to be known as the place for tweens, teens and coaster fanatics but there now is plenty for little ones—from classics like ET (the little kids don’t even know who he is), to the wonderful Seussland, to Woody Woodpecker’s KIdZone complete with a gentle coaster and a playground for the youngest park goers. 
The two parks— Universal Studios Florida and Islands of Adventure—are separated by “CityWalk,” with restaurants (we had lunch at the NASCAR Café – Ethan and his dad are big fans). The parks are close enough to walk between the two.  It’s also possible to tour both in one day, as we did.

“My kids like it better than Disney. It’s easier to get around,” said Taraa Goldizen, who was visiting with her husband and four kids.

“Seussland keeps the kids occupied for hours,” and it’s a lot less crowded than Disney,” said Tiffany Hill, who has seasons passes here.

The kids love meeting Spongebob, Shreck and Donkey, among others.  We’re impressed with the technology behind the attractions—like on the brand new “The Simpsons Ride” where we go to Krustyland, a theme park created by the show’s cash hungry clown.  We soar through Krustyland and Springfield on a ride that I’m told features the world’s first-ever cork screw that’s animated.

I’m amazed that the kids last from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m. in the parks.  Because there were so many attractions for them (they especially liked Shreck the 4D adventure), they were patient when their dad wanted to ride some of Universal’s famous Coasters—Dueling Dragons and The Hulk (I opted out of the coasters!) We help save the planet wit Jimmy Neutron and become the stars on a Disaster movie set (they love that their mom is chosen to participate!) Three year old Hannah happily plays on Me Ship the Olive, where she can point water cannons at her parents and brother as they ride Dudley Do-Right’s Rip Saw Falls.

Both kids love the rides in Seuss Landing—from the high in the sky Train ride to Cat in the Hat to an interactive merry-go-round, and One Fish Two Fish Red Fish Blue Fish where they steer their fish through a circular obstacle course of squirting fountains.

No matter how many rides I’ve done at a Disney Park, I always leave feeling I haven’t done it all. Maybe because the Universal parks are smaller and more compact, you have a sense that you’ve seen it all when you left.

Next:  On to the Disney Cruise

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Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Watery Fun at SeaWorld’s new Aquatica Park in Orlando

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One of the many attractions at Aquatica, SeaWorld’s new park in Orlando(click image to enlarge)
DAY THREE—Thank goodness for the clouds.
If it had been a blue-sky-sunny kind of day, Aquatica, SeaWorld’s new park in Orlando, would have been packed—so packed that the park has been at capacity by 11 a.m. on weekdays.

“This is our third try to get in,” said Laura Goguen, from Wellesley, MA, who had stopped with her family on their way to the airport.

Open just a month, it’s easy to see why SeaWorld’s latest venture is already a hit with 36 (count em!) water slides, six lazy rivers and lagoons, plenty of man-made sand beach (no one fighting over chairs for once) and two first rate areas for younger park goers complete with gentle slides, climbing nets, water cannons and giant water buckets that dump water on the little guests seemingly on cue.

Did I mention the Commerson’s dolphins? They are found in the southeastern United States and in the park’s signature Dolphin Plunge, where you catch sight of them as you slide down a tube through their habitat.

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Tuesday, May 06, 2008

Autograph seeking and a guided tour of Disney World

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Ethan and Hannah with guide Maureen Murphy(click image to enlarge)
DAY TWO—You better plan ahead if you want to dine with a princess. I learn that breakfast or lunch at Cinderella’s castle is such a hot ticket that it‘s booked six months in advance. We see lots of little princesses in glittery, fluffy outfits with their hair done just so at the new boutique…

We opted for breakfast with Mickey and Minnie and, for once, it wasn’t a faux pas to be wearing the same dress—at least three year old Hannah Sitzman doesn’t think so. “I’ve got the same dress as you!” she exclaims, greeting Minnie Mouse, jumping up and down. We’d wondered if Hannah would be afraid of the characters – I’ve got pictures of my own kids crying as Goofy tries to put his arm around them at that age—but Hannah couldn’t be more excited. Her brother Ethan is determined to get every autograph he can in his spanking new book. It is fun to see Disney World through these little eyes who think everything is so much fun and so exciting.

The key to these character meals is the characters all come to you so you don’t have to wait in line (and those lines can be very long!).  So you eat your pancakes, sip your coffee and wait as Mickey, Minnie, Pluto, or whomever is the characters at the meal you’ve chosen, make their rounds posing for pictures, signing autographs, giving a high five here and a hug there. It’s so much less stressful!

So is doing the park with a VIP guide like Maureen Murphy.  I felt like she was my fairy godmother! You pay a premium m for the service (something like $175 an hour) and you don’t get to cut lines. But if you are a first time park visitor, guides like Maureen know the place backwards and forwards. That means they know which fast passes to get first thing in the morning (any of the mountains she said—Splash Mountain, Space Mountain, Thunder Railroad.  She can guarantee you a prime spot for the parade where the characters might stop and give your kids a hug, and she can navigate through the crowd and the stroller brigade. As many times as I’ve been to magic kingdom, I’ve never had a less stressful day or managed to “do” as many rides—from Dumbo (always a long line, so go there first thing in the morning) to Splash Mountain.  Maureen also had good suggestions for where to take three year old Hannah when Ethan went to ride some of the Coasters with his dad. (The Bear jamboree was one hit.)

It’s not that we couldn’t have figured it out on our own—it’s just that she made it easier.  I know Disney is pricey without an extra fee for a VIP guide, but if you’re traveling with another family or grandparents, and can split the cost, it may be worth it if it’s your first time.

Maureen’s tip:  Figure out what is most important and hit those rides first. And if autographs are on your must-do list—head to Toontown.

Hannah and Ethan are stationed perfectly for the parade.  Hannah blows kisses at the fairy godmother while Goofy waves at Ethan and Chip and Dale come over for a hug… The kids are beside themselves with excitement.

Next:  Sea World

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Monday, May 05, 2008

A trip to Walt Disney World with two little ones

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Hannah and Ethan meet up with Goofy(click image to enlarge)
DAY ONE—It’s 3 p.m. and the pool at Disney’s Boardwalk resort in Orlando is packed with parents and kids, including a lot of little ones. “It takes patience with young ones.  They get so overwhelmed and excited but it’s priceless to see their faces,” one mom in the pool told me.

All agreed that a secret to a successful foray with the mouse was to relax and give up the idea of seeing it all.  And of course you need to try to stay within your budget.  “But I don’t mind the price—you can’t put a price on this kind of fun,” said Nicole Cabral, a mom from a Fall River, MA.
Sharon Orfaly, here with a two year old and five year old, said her family is back for the third year in a row and can’t think of a better vacation. Her tip: “Don’t over-plan. Take each day as it comes. You’ve got to go with the flow!”

Some days, she adds, the pool is all the kids want to do; other times they want to spend hours trying on princess dresses. “It’s so much fun seeing everything through their eyes,” she acknowledges.  And, while bed times are important, “You’ve got to bend the rules!” It’s vacation after all.”
A few more tips for Disney neophytes:  Carry your own water and snacks, allow each child to choose a must-see attraction and make sure everyone gets that in each day.

“I was worried the kids were two young,” said a mom of a three year old and 18 month old. “But it’s fabulous. There is so much to do!”
That’s an understatement. There’s too much to do—in one trip anyway. But it is fun to see the kids’ excitement—and the grandparents’ excitement too.  “I was just as exited to meet Cinderella as my daughter,” one mom Candice Segenthaler, from Pittsburgh, joked. “It’s really special.”

I’m here with my cousins Mike and Jayme Sitzman from the Denver area with their five year old Ethan and three year old Hannah. They’ve been to Disneyland in California but this is their first trip to Orlando and they want to hit the park as soon as they arrive so we head over to Hollywood Studios. But by the time we get there, and eat dinner, the park is closing! We need to get more organized, we think. There’s always tomorrow.

Next:  Plan ahead if you want to dine with a princess

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Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Chaa Creek—started small before “eco” was a word

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Kids marvel over a lesson in how caterpillars morph into butterflies at Chaa Creek(click image to enlarge)
DAY SEVEN:  There were no roads—just overgrown jungle.

Mick Fleming approached in dugout canoe. “But there was something about the place,” he recalls more than 30 years later.
His wife Lucy, who arrived on horseback the day after he saw the overgrown farm, agrees.  “This place always had a certain amount of magic—a pull. I felt it. We were young and crazy—no money and decided to be pioneers.”

Lucy was from New Jersey; Mick from England. They had met in England and found their way to Belize --at that point still a British colony.  Mick had just found—and lost—a job in one day when they encountered another Englishman at a bar in Belize City. He was looking for someone to take care of his farm near San Ignacio.

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Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Seeing Mayan ruins and tubing through a cave

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The Mayan ruins of Xunantunich(click image to enlarge)
DAY SIX—Right after breakfast, we head out with our guide, Wilbert Moh, to the Mayan site of Xunantunich, about 15 minutes from the Ka’Ana resort.  It means Stone Maiden—so named, Moh explains, because a hunter in the late 1800s claimed he spotted the apparition of a beautiful Mayan woman here. The structures—including one that is the second highest in Belize – rise up to 525 feet. It takes your breath away to think they were built 1,000 years ago. At one point, 7,000 Mayans lived and worked here.

To get here, we ride on a hand-cranked ferry across the Mopan River. The bank is lined with small stands selling the usual souvenirs—hand embroidered bags from villages, crazy hats, tee shirts, hammocks.

We climb to up 85 steep stone steps to the top of what was once a “multi-purpose building”—kings palace, priest’s temple, place for performances. We see can look across the unmarked border into Guatemala. I try to imagine the king standing where I’m standing addressing the crowds below. I imagine women cooking, and vendors trading their goods.

We see hieroglyphs that represent the rain god, the goddess of fertility and others. The first excavations here were back in the 1890s; this site only became a national park in the 1990s. Moh shows us the small benches that would have been covered with jaguar skins, where the Mayans slept. They were short people!  Yet the steps are so steep. That was to keep the lower classes from coming up to the wealthy’s homes—kind of an ancient condo.  The higher they were, the closer to heaven they believed they were.  I try to imagine the limestone painted bright red as it would have been in those days. 

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Monday, April 28, 2008

On to the Cayo District

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Our bungalow at Ka’Ana, with hammock on the porch(click image to enlarge)
DAY FIVE—After a three hour drive from Placencia, entertained the entire way by our 24-year-old guide and driver Wilbert Moh, we arrive at a new style Jungle resort in the Cayo district just outside San Ignacio.

Ka’ana has just 14 well appointed rooms—the beds are amazingly comfortable with down pillows—complete with plasma screen TVs, iPod docking stations, WiFi, and all natural soaps in the bathrooms.

The 36-acre resort, which is growing popular with families, also has a terrific pool and a young chef who is said to be among the best in Belize. Most of the vegetables and herbs are provided from the organic garden—everything from zucchini and peppers to cilantro, dill and parsley.  (How about tipsy tequila shrimp or beef carpaccio, homemade pasta or tenderloin? Did I mention the wine cellar?  The spa?

The owner, Ian Lizarraga, who used to manage the Coppola resorts here, explains that the idea was to give visitors a little serenity and luxury after intense days touring the jungle, and Mayan ruins. The Guatemalan site of Tikal is a couple of hour’s drive and other ruins are just a short drive away within Belize.
We sample Nance, the popular Belizean liquor made from the Craboo berry and then can’t remember half of what we eat for dinner.

We can laze by the pool, on our back deck or our hammock on our front porch, listening to the birds chirp. Those who come here want to experience what is authentic in Belize without sacrificing their creature comforts, Lizarraga tells me. Nothing wrong with that.  (Check out the family program that offers a second room at 50 per cent off till November http://www.kaanabelize.com)

In this area, we have our pick—Mayan ruins, tubing through caves, canoeing or kayaking, swimming in natural pools—there just aren’t’ enough days!  I like the chance to explore and come back to a nice dinner and comfortable bed. Wouldn’t you?

NEXT:  The Mayan ruins and tubing through a cavern

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